中西混搭将军庙

时间:2022-07-05 07:20:54

中西混搭将军庙

泉城路的北边,西门里鞭指巷或高都司巷北行,中间有条东西走向长不过180米的街道,这就是将军庙街。将军庙街是一条原生态的济南老街,不似曲水亭、王府池子那边的繁华,这里有的就是老四合院、老水井、老街坊⋯⋯

作为一个生活在济南的外地人,第一次听说将军庙街,首先冒出来的疑问是:这是哪个将军的庙啊?而再问一下老济南人,会告诉你将军庙街最著名的不是哪个将军的庙,而是天主教堂。这中国庙VS天主堂,可真是有点儿意思。

在这条短短的老巷子里曾经并列着四座庙堂,自东至西依次是城隍庙、将军庙、慈云观和天主堂,老街因庙得名。上世纪曾易名“云彩街”,1980年又恢复了“将军庙街”的名字。

将军庙里供奉的是清代的济南人刘猛,他的故事里颇有些传奇色彩。据传,清代刘猛是一个才貌双全、屡立战功的骁勇猛将,他有一位俊美贤良的夫人。后来他的夫人因奸人怂恿被雍正皇帝骗入宫中,然后阴谋设计使刘猛从陡峭山路上跌落下马而死,后又以灭两家九族胁迫刘夫人就范。刘夫人被逼无奈,最后提出为丈夫盖庙以表其忠君爱国之心。由于刘猛是济南人,济南的官员便奉旨盖了将军庙。后来事情传开,济南的百姓们认为刘猛是个刚直、善良的人,死后成神定会保护百姓,因此,很多人都来烧香还愿,年年祭祀。

另有传说,刘猛将军并非姓刘名猛,而是一位姓刘的猛将,总之关于他的传说很多。旧俗正月十三为刘猛将军诞辰,除官府致祭,民间也举行迎神赛舟会。

故事无源可查,只不过表达了济南老百姓正直善良的淳朴性情。现在,当年的雄伟建筑早已荡然无存,将军庙的旧址成了居民杂院,顺着七弯八拐的小巷子走进院落深处,将军庙只剩大殿的半截断壁立在居民的平房群中,陪伴它的是一株枯败的古树。

在将军庙的东侧,过去是府城隍庙。济南有督、府、县三级共三个城隍庙。督城隍庙位于城东东华街,历史最为悠久,现保存尚好。县城隍庙清嘉庆十五年(1810年)建于东关东舍房隍宫内,道光七年(1827年)移建城内广丰仓之西,就是今天历下区教委院内,已被拆除。清同治年间,从东昌府调来济南任知府的龚易图,见督、县均有城隍而无府庙,便在将军庙街兴建了五进四院气势不凡的庙宇。据老人们说,庙里过去既有泥垒的城隍,也有一尊木雕城隍,每年清明和阴历七月十五日,这木雕的城隍被抬着“出巡”。今天这府城隍庙仅存主殿和山墙及换过瓦的屋顶,整座院子已成为居民杂院了,当年的气魄俨然不见。

道教的慈云观在将军庙街中段,始建于清道光二十五年(1845年)。现在它的仪门和正殿的山墙及小瓦屋顶还在,整座院子也已住满了居民,据附近居民讲原先拱门过道两旁有泥塑人马一对,后来被捣毁了。只剩下仪门上“慈云观”三个字表述着它曾经的身份。

将军庙街上的庙观都已荡然无存,但最著名的天主堂还在。

将军庙街的最西头便是天主堂了,也是整条街上保存最好的建筑。其溯源最早追溯于清顺治八年(1651年),西班牙教士嘉伯尔在西门内将军庙街购地,主持建造了一座从结构布局到外观造型均为西方教堂模式的天主堂,为济南近代建筑活动最早的记录。由于“洋教堂”不为当地民众所喜爱,更因传教士仗势欺民,包庇纵容教徒胡作非为,引起义愤,在清雍正二年(1724年)反对洋教的当地百姓将天主堂拆除。清咸丰十一年(1861年),法国主教江类思来山东施教,向山东巡抚提出要在济南将军庙街重建“天主教济南牧教区总堂”的要求,清政府屈膝,将数十家民宅及湖田划拨,建成后取名“圣母无染原罪堂”。1863年与主教堂毗邻的小修道院建成,1866年主教堂建成,高26米,建筑面积350平米。罗马教廷汲取教训,将拥有很高圣权的总堂建成仅容百余人的小堂口,建筑物易守难攻极为封闭。同时,采用中国传统建筑形式建造,石墙到顶,卷棚屋面,小青瓦覆盖,形式朴素,仅在门窗等部位保留一些西洋建筑特征。1898年又在主教堂以北建主教公署,几经变迁,天主堂才形成现在的规模。该建筑群是济南最早的近代建筑艺术代表作,教堂融合中外,兼采南北,地域特征明显,体现了老济南在殖民时期中西文化碰撞、交融的建筑特点。其建设艺术,特别是内部壁画精美,宗教气氛浓郁,是济南重要的宗教建筑之一。

天主堂西墙外,启明街路西今高都司巷小学,原来叫海星学堂,也是教会所设。这几处建筑组合南临将军庙街,北止双忠祠街,西起启明街,东到西熨斗隅巷,成为老城内颇具规模的洋楼方阵。现在仍有许多老济南人将这一带称为“洋楼街”。

由于原先香火鼎盛,这条百十米长石条铺就的小街上,人来人往,很是热闹。有卖水的,卖煎饼、酱菜的,卖煮地瓜、切糕的,卖油旋、粽子的,逢年过节、良辰吉日,来此进香的人也是熙熙攘攘,卖纸的、卖香的、卖“金元宝”的也多了起来。

将军的故事早已被世人淡忘,但将军庙街依然充满了市井生活的乱糟糟的生机,搬运煤球的男人,街边打公话的饭馆服务员,踢足球的孩子,墙头的白猫⋯⋯这里是隐藏在闹市之后的平静的百姓生活。

漫步老街,犹如站于历史的门槛边,幽幽古巷散发着它独有的魅力。走出小巷,转瞬重新融入高楼耸立间,感觉似乎于须臾间穿越了百年沧桑,心中感慨万千。这条中西混搭的将军庙街,以其独有的内涵存在于老城的边角,静望着时光的变迁。

Jiangjunmiao Street

To the north of Quancheng Road, there is a 180-meter-long street named Jiangjunmiao Street.

In this short street there were four sacred buildings from east to west―Chenghuang Temple, Jiangjunmiao (The General’s Temple), Ciyun Temple and the Catholic Church. The street was named after the temples and last century was called “Yuncai Street”. In 1980, it renamed as “Jiangjunmiao Street”.

Jiangjunmiao was built to commemorate Liu Meng, a general in the Qing Dynasty. His story is a real legend. Liu Meng had a beautiful wife. The emperor cheated his wife into entering the palace and caused him to die by falling down from a house on a steep hill. Then the emperor compelled Liu Meng’s wife to give in by threatening her with killing her whole family. Liu Meng’s wife proposed building a temple for her husband and making sacrifice every year. Liu Meng was a native of Jinan, so the officials of Jinan built the Jiangjunmiao.

Nowadays, the site of Jiangjunmiao has become residential yards. Only half of the palace still stands in the cottage areas.

The temples in Jiangjunmiao Street have already disappeared, leaving only the Catholic Church. At the west end of Jiangjunmiao Street is the church, which is the best preserved building in this street. The church adopted traditional Chinese architectural form―stone walls and small grey tiles, and only retained some western architectural characteristics in doors and windows. In 1898, the bishop’s office was built to the north of the church. This is the earliest masterpiece of modern architectural art in Jinan.

The story of the general is almost forgotten by the world. However, Jiangjunmiao Street is still filled with vitality. This street has both Chinese and western architectural characteristics. It still exists in the corner of the old city and has witnessed the vicissitudes of time.

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