浪漫里斯本

原文作者：佚名

there are not many places left in europe where it’s still possible to be a romantic， but lisbon probably tops the shortlist[候选名单]. even smiling， middle-aged couples walk along its leafy avenues[林荫道] and sun-bleached[使褪色] plazas as if out on a first date.

lisbon’s charm has as much to do with everyday sights as its reasonable prices and friendly people. the locals are so laid-back[懒散的] that it’s a wonder portugal ever managed to get an empire together.

lisbon， built on seven hills， is also one of europe’s most accessible cities for exploring on foot.

and it is not just tourists who are attracted to the delights of the portuguese capital—film-makers also flock[成群地来] there. among the latest movies to be made in the city is night train to lisbon. jeremy irons注1 plays a professor who abandons[放弃] his job and heads to lisbon on a journey of self-discovery.

irons was certainly impressed by the city， describing it as “an absolute jewel.”

he says， “lisbon is a glorious city to shoot in. not only architecturally because of its extraordinary buildings， but there’s this huge friendliness i felt from its wonderful people. i hope it won’t be long before i come back and make another movie here.”[论文网]

the film was shot largely in lisbon’s historic districts during the spring and made use of streets such as rua misericordia， the baixa （city centre）， and rua augusta.

“lisbon has a very special atmosphere[气氛]，” says bille august， night train to lisbon’s danish director.

“it has a decadence[颓废] and melancholy[忧郁] that comes from lost grandeur[庄严]. it’s a mysterious place but there’s certain beauty to the city that’s long been lost elsewhere. so much of the world has been taken over by money， but not so in lisbon. there’s a kind of innocence[单纯] to the people which i really hope they retain[保持]. it’s important they don’t step into the greedier world the rest of us inhabit[居住于].”

although lisbon is easy to navigate[行走] on foot， there are two quirky[离奇的] forms of transport not to be missed： the fabulous， old elevadores （cable-winched[用绞车拉] lifts）， and old trams[有轨电车] that carry you into lisbon’s charming heart.

during my visit， i hopped aboard the no. 28， a wooden tram that winds[蜿蜒前进] its way from the shopping area of baixa to the narrow streets of the capital’s alfama quarter.

later， i took the giant santa justa lift， which rises from sea level to chiado， a district known for its fashion boutiques[小商店].

even with just a few days in lisbon， i was able to cram[填满] in a lot more besides eating salted cod[鳕鱼] and sardines[沙丁鱼] and drinking strong coffee called bica. one morning， i visited the striking belém tower beside the river tagus—it’s a stone monument[纪念碑] that celebrates portugal’s seafaring past.

afterwards， irresistible[不

可抵抗的] sweet smells drew me into a pastry[酥皮糕点] shop known for its deliciously fresh egg tarts. but be warned： one is never enough.

things to do in lisbon

lisbon is one of the most beautiful cities in europe. this city has a very unique style and the charm of the old world注2. while walking through the narrow streets of the city centre， discover these things to do in the capital of portugal.

belém tower

every tourist looking for an afternoon outing should put the belém tower on their list. it’s a classic example of late gothic architecture注3. the tower， when it was built， stood on the bank of the tagus river and today still stands in the same plane. if you’ve ever had an interest in the age of discovery注4， pay close attention. this is where magellan注5 and vasco da gama注6 used to get ready for their new world expeditions！

pastel de nata

these warm， fresh-out-of-the-oven custard[牛奶蛋糊] tarts can be found in cafés all over lisbon. take a seat and try this little treat which is included in the list of the top 50 best delicacies[美味佳肴] in the world. are you convinced yet？ they’re best enjoyed with a bica.

alfama

now that your belly’s been satisfied， it’s time to get back on the move！ take the bus and head into the city centre， towards alfama， the oldest district of the city. this area was once dominated by arabs， but today it’s a pleasant mix-and-match with steep streets creating a labyrinth[迷宫] for those unfamiliar with the layout. in 1775 most of lisbon was levelled out[把……弄平] after a huge earthquake. this slice[部分] of the old city remains； the last piece of what used to be.

fado

alfama is nice during the day but it’s even better once night falls and the street bars fill with music. it’s the best place to catch a performance of fado， a musical tradition consisting of[由……组成] a viola[中提琴]， portuguese guitar and some singers reciting poems dedicated to the men who have sailed the high seas.

the oceanarium

the largest indoor aquarium[水族馆] in europe， the oceanarium was built to commemorate[纪念] the world expo held in lisbon in 1998. the stone and glass structure is a wonder in itself and once you add the four separate aquariums featuring ecosystems from the atlantic， pacific， indian and antarctic oceans， it’s incredible.

st. george’s castle

reserve an entire morning or afternoon to discover st. george’s castle. it stands atop the highest hill of lisbon and is the most popular tourist attraction in the city， for good reason. it is square in shape and was originally surrounded by a wall， almost like a citadel[要塞]. throughout history it was the military headquarters for romans， moors注7 and even spaniards[西班牙人]. more recently， the big earthquake in the 1770s tested the strength of its foundation and the castle remains intact[完整无缺的].

trams

if you’re tired by now of all the ups and downs， your calves[小腿] are aching and you just can

’t take it any more， then grab the tram. these yellow trams will take you along some of the most inaccessible routes by foot， so it’s not only historical but exciting as well！

在欧洲，能够让你浪漫一回的地方已经不多了。在候选名单上，里斯本或许位居榜首。覆满绿荫的街道，被太阳照得明晃晃的广场，就连微笑着走过这些地方的中年夫妇也仿佛是初次约会一般。

里斯本的魅力往往体现在其日常景物当中，这与其合理的物价和友好的当地人有很大关系。当地人太悠闲了，葡萄牙竟然曾经建立起一个帝国，这似乎是一个奇迹。

建在七座山上的里斯本也是欧洲最适合徒步游览的城市之一。

被吸引到葡萄牙首都来的不仅有游客，还有电影人。将在该城拍摄的其中一部最新电影是《开往里斯本的夜车》。杰里米·艾恩斯扮演一位教授。他放弃了自己的工作，前往里斯本进行一段发现自我之旅。

艾恩斯对这座城市印象深刻，形容它是“一颗真正的宝石”。

他说：“里斯本是绝佳的拍摄地。不仅因为在建筑上它拥有非凡的建筑物，也因为这里的人们对我非常友好。我希望不久以后能再次回到这里拍摄另一部电影。”

这部电影拍摄于春季，主要在里斯本历史悠久的地区取景，当中包括怜悯街、拜萨区（市中心）和奥古斯塔街。

“里斯本有一种很特别的氛围，”《开往里斯本的夜车》的丹麦籍导演比尔·奥古斯特说。

“失落的尊荣给它带来一种颓废与忧郁的味道。这座城市是一个神秘的地方，但有着别处早已失去的某种美好。世界上如此多的地方已被金钱劫持，里斯本却能独善其身。这里的人有一种纯真，我真的希望他们能够保持不变。他们没有踏入我们其他人所处的贪婪世界，这一点很重要。”

虽然里斯本便于徒步游览，但还有两种特殊的交通方式不容错过——不同寻常的老式电缆升降机和能将你带到里斯本迷人市中心的老式电车。

在游览里斯本时，我跳上了28号电车。这电车是木制的，从拜萨购物区蜿蜒拐入阿尔法玛区的狭窄街道。

后来，我又搭乘了巨大的圣胡斯塔升降梯——它从海平面上升到以时尚精品店闻名的希亚多区。

尽管我在里斯本只待了短短几天，但除了吃盐腌鳕鱼和沙丁鱼，以及一种名叫“比卡”的浓咖啡，我还饱食了很多美食。一天早上，我参观了塔霍河旁边震撼的贝伦塔——这座石碑赞颂着葡萄牙的航海历史。

随后，令人无法抗拒的香甜气味将我引入一家糕点店，这家店以其美味的新鲜蛋挞闻名。但注意咯——吃一个是绝对不够的。

里斯本的好去处

里斯本是欧洲最美丽的城市之一，有着非常独特的风格和东半球风情。在步行穿过市中心狭窄的街道时，不妨也去发掘一下葡萄牙首都的好去处。

贝伦塔

想在下午出去走走的游客都应该把贝伦塔列入单子。它是晚期哥特式建筑的典范。这座塔当年建造时就立在塔霍河岸上，如今它依然矗立在同一个地方。如果你对地理大发现时期感兴趣，不妨多加留意。麦哲伦和瓦斯科·达伽马当年就是在这里为他们探索新世界的历险做准备的！

葡式蛋挞

这些热气腾腾、新鲜出炉的奶油蛋挞在里斯本的咖啡馆随处可见。找个座位坐下来，尝尝这种名列世界50种最佳美食的小点心吧。现在你相信了吗？葡式蛋挞和比卡咖啡是最佳搭配。

阿尔法玛区

填饱肚子之后，是时候重新启程了！乘公交车到市中心去，向阿尔法玛区进发。这是里斯本最老的区，以前到处都是阿拉伯人，但今天，它是一个令人愉快的大杂烩，对于不熟悉此地布局的人而言，陡峭的街道可能会变成一个迷宫。在1775年的一场大地震中，里斯本的大部分区域被夷为平地，但这片老城区留存了下来，是里斯本昔日容貌的最后一斑。

法朵民谣

白天的阿尔法玛区很不错，不过到了晚上，当街上的酒吧飘满音乐时，这里就更好玩了。这是观赏法朵民谣表演的最佳去处。法朵是一种葡萄牙传统音乐，由中提琴和葡萄牙吉他演奏，再由几位歌手背诵献给出海男儿的诗歌。

海洋水族馆

这是欧洲最大的室内水族馆，该馆是为了纪念1998年在里斯本举行的世博会而建的。石与玻璃的结构本身就是一个奇迹，再加上四个独立的水族馆，分别模拟大西洋、太平洋、印度洋和南极海域的生态系统，这里就更加无与伦比了。

圣乔治城堡

预留一整个上午或下午的时间到圣乔治城堡发掘亮点吧。圣乔治城堡矗立在里斯本最高的山上，是这座城市最热门的旅游景点——这是很有道理的。它形状方正，原来有围墙包围，几乎就是一个城塞。在历史上它曾是罗马人、摩尔人，甚至西班牙人的军事总部。在更近的历史中，它顶住了18世纪70年代那场大地震的考验，至今依然完好无损。

有轨电车

如果这一路上起伏跌宕的山路把你累坏了，小腿酸痛不已，再也走不动了，那就去搭电车吧。这些黄色电车将带你穿过一些徒步无法到达的路线。所以搭电车不仅很有历史感，也很令人兴奋哦！