一座记录城市美食的文化殿堂

时间:2022-05-30 02:36:07

一座记录城市美食的文化殿堂

这里演绎的是杭帮菜的前世今生,这里展示的是杭州餐饮文化的经营理念和丰富内涵。让我们走进藏在江洋畈生态公园之中那可看可尝的美食殿堂,去领受饮食文化的风情与底蕴。

2011年12月底,在辞旧岁迎新年之际,一座定位为中国最高水平的地方菜博物馆――中国杭帮菜博物馆,在玉皇山南侧的江洋畈生态公园内掀开面纱。

沉淀着杭州的人文底蕴,彰显着杭帮菜发展历程,中国杭帮菜博物馆杯・我最喜爱的“十佳精品杭帮菜”前段时间的火爆评选活动,让市民和游客对于杭帮菜的历史积淀和精髓有更深刻的认识,也为中国杭帮菜博物馆的开放迎客作了一轮热身。

集观赏、品尝、体验于一体的“杭帮菜”博物馆,坐落在一个鸟语花香的生态公园,这里不同色彩的花地组合,形成富有野趣的山谷花地景观。花地中的观景平台让游客陶醉于一派姹紫嫣红之中;滨水观景平台能使游客欣赏充满野趣的次生湿地。众多的中外游客在长达1300米的木栈道细细赏玩,那形如绣球的蝴蝶花、野趣自然的波斯菊、飘逸灵动的狼尾草,还有鸟儿、鱼类、水禽、两栖类动物为这座博物馆营造了美丽别致的外部环境。

杭帮菜博物馆建筑面积约13000平方米,分为三层,地上两层,地下一层,主要有博物馆区和经营体验区两个部分。地上一层为展示区,采用文字、图片、多媒体、品尝体验等多种形式展现杭州饮食文化。二层主要为博物馆的经营体验部分,提供各种餐饮服务,内设多个不同主题包厢及高档特色餐饮区。高档特色餐饮区经营宫廷菜、官府菜、寺观菜(素菜)、私家菜(民间菜)、迷宗菜(创新菜)等主题菜点,主要展现与南宋宫廷宴、东坡官府宴、杭州素食宴、西湖十景宴、翠竹宴等相关的美食文化。地下层为部分餐饮、厨房及设备管理用房。博物馆外二层还有一个挑台,和一层的临水平台错落有致,那是一个很不错的室外就餐点。

中国杭帮菜博物馆最近征集到一副楹联:“西湖美景春夏秋冬远近听听看看;杭州名菜东西南北古今品品尝尝。”上联将西湖十景融入其中:春(苏堤春晓)、夏(曲院风荷)、秋(平湖秋月)、冬(断桥残雪)、远(双峰插云)、近(三潭印月)、听(南屏晚钟)、听(柳浪闻莺)、看(雷峰夕照)、看(花港观鱼)。下联涵义包含了十道精品杭帮名菜:东(东坡肉)、西(西湖醋鱼)、南(南肉春笋)、北(百鸟朝凤)、古(栗子冬菇――传统名菜)、今(金牌扣肉――新杭州名菜)、品(一品南乳肉――传统名菜)、品(西湖一品煲――新杭州名菜)、尝(宋嫂鱼羹)、尝(西湖莼菜汤)。下联不仅体现出杭帮菜中的经典菜品,更将源远流长的杭帮菜历史文化融注其中,上下联相辅相成、珠联璧合。中国杭帮菜博物馆还邀请著名书法家、中国美术学院教授王冬龄先生亲笔挥毫,演绎楹联的独特魅力。

“不嫌酸味桃花醋,下箸争尝宋嫂鱼”。宋嫂鱼羹,是一道杭州名菜。这道菜的由来可以追溯到800多年前。相传宋高宗赵构,禅位于孝宗后,以太上皇的身份经常在西湖边游逛。一天,他和随从到了西湖边一家小菜馆,尝到了厨娘宋嫂做的一碗鱼羹,大加赞赏,并赋诗一首。杭帮菜中很多菜背后都有历史故事和美丽传说。到杭帮菜博物馆逛一圈,这些掌故都能看到,这些名菜也都能尝到。

杭帮菜历史悠久,菜品丰富,特色鲜明,经营多元,以清新本味为特色,在全国享有盛誉。杭帮菜在历史长河中积淀了深厚的饮食文化底蕴,形成了自己独特的风味。杭帮菜如同西湖美景一般清淡而隽永,自然而雅致,承载着这座城市的文化和气质。

美食行业历来是杭州商贸业的重点行业之一。目前全市共有餐饮企业19000余家,从业人员18万人。杭州先后有13家杭菜企业被评为“中华餐饮名店”,5家被授予“国际餐饮名店”称号。近年来,杭州一批知名餐饮企业成功实现了向上海、北京、香港等地的扩张,在全国近20个城市开出了近百家连锁店,形成了“杭帮菜”效应。它继承挖掘传统和民间菜点,又博采南北菜肴精华,不断创新发展,形成在全国最具影响力的城市菜,被誉为“21世纪的中国菜”。中国杭帮菜博物馆的建成开放,不仅将进一步提升杭州餐饮业的饮食文化品位,同时还将推动中国餐饮业文化建设和品牌化、规模化、国际化的进程。

这是一座能看能尝的饮食文化博物馆。“杭帮菜”博物馆将以打造文化餐饮综合体为目标,通过展览和演示,反映杭州餐饮发展历史,体现杭州人文精神。在特色餐饮上,“杭帮菜”博物馆将以“名店、名菜、名师”为特色,引进杭州名家名店,并由名家大厨掌勺推出正宗“杭帮菜”的各式菜肴点心,供中外游客品尝、体验。

除了展示和体验,“杭帮菜”博物馆还将成为杭州饮食文化交流的平台。这里将举办各种形式的美食消费、品尝活动,组织餐饮文化研讨,开展交流培训活动,以提升“杭帮菜”的影响力和知名度,推动杭州美食行业繁荣发展。

宋代杭州菜品文化陈设

This part of the exhibition displays the dishes of the Song Dynasty.

杭州名宴展示

This part of the exhibition shows the famous banquet dishes of Hangzhou cuisine

Hangzhou Cuisine Museum Offers Encyclopedic Look at Local Taste

By Wei Sifeng

Hangzhou Cuisine Museum is located at Jiangyangfan Park at the southern foot of Jade Emperor Hill near the former site of the royal palace of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). The venue used to be a place where sludge dredged from the West Lake was dumped and heaped. The landfill was left alone to evolve naturally and it became a paradise to local fauna and flora. Now it has been developed into a geopark.

The museum, with a built-up area of 13,000 square meters, is a three-storied complex that houses an exhibition section and a restaurant, where visitors can see and taste the local chefs’ wits and talents embodied in dishes. The large building has two stories above the ground and one story underground. The ground floor is the exhibition zone where texts, photographs, and multimedia combine to showcase the local food culture. On the second floor is a restaurant with various culinary styles of the city: dishes from the royal house, the dishes from government officials of the dynasties, the dishes from Buddhist temples and Taoist monasteries around the city, dishes from folk residences, and new dishes created by modern chefs in the city. The restaurant is divided into various sections and private rooms. On the underground floor are a restaurant, a kitchen, and a section for power equipment and other devices. The second floor above the ground has a balcony and the ground floor has a platform spread above water.

Many famous Hangzhou dishes go back to the Southern Song Dynasty, which lasted about 150 years in Hangzhou more than eight centuries ago. The famous dishes on the traditional menu are associated with various legends and folktales. The exhibition offers an insight into the history of the local food.

Hangzhou cuisine features a big menu, a long history, and distinct characteristics. The essential taste is light and natural. The local cuisine enjoys a big national reputation and forms a unique tradition and style.

The museum truthfully reflects the big part the cuisine industry plays in the booming tourism economy of the city which receives more than 65 million tourists from home and abroad a year. Alternatively, Hangzhou is a city of restaurants. At the last count, the city had more than 19,000 restaurants and 180,000 employees. Of these restaurants, thirteen are “Famous Restaurants of China” and five are designated as “Restaurants with International Reputation.”

Restaurateurs in Hangzhou are good at running restaurants. They have helped invent brand new dishes that appeal to ordinary diners as well as gourmets. They have explored and industrialized the way to run restaurant business most effectively at lowest possible cost. In fact, Hangzhou Cuisine is now the most influential cuisine in the name of a city in China. Some food critics even consider it the very cuisine of the 21st-century China.

The cuisine industry has long since expanded to other cities across China. Some best restaurants in Hangzhou have successfully established themselves in Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong. At the last survey, the local restaurants opened nearly 100 branches in 20 cities.

It is believed that the museum will definitely promote the local cuisine industry, enhancing its image, scale and internalization.

民国时期杭州西餐馆展示

This part of the exhibition tells the story of western restaurants in Hangzhou during the republican years.

中国杭帮菜博物馆

An external view of Hangzhou Cuisine Museum

老杭州小吃摊展示(雕塑)

This sculpture shows a roadside food stand in old Hangzhou

坡与东坡肉传说展示

This part of the exhibition tells the story of Su Dongpo and the legend of Dongpo Pork

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