莫干山下“洋家乐”

近年来，浙江省德清县莫干山麓，由一些外籍人士创办的低碳旅游新业态——“洋家乐”正悄然兴起并渐成风尚。

早在上世纪二三十年代，莫干山就以“竹、云、泉”的自然景观和颇具异国情调的别墅群蜚声海内外。新中国成立以来，这座江南名山的旅游资源和生态环境一直得到精心呵护，前往观光度假者络绎不绝。2007年，一个给自己取名“高天成”的南非小伙子(Grant Horsfield)从上海骑车闯进了莫干山，一眼看中了青山环抱的“三九坞”小村落。他发现此地和自己故乡的环境十分相似，尤其是那些土得掉渣的泥坯房，似乎让他闻到了老家的泥土味。当高天成听说这些农房大多闲置时，立刻与朋友们租下了6间大房子，租期15年。从此，他们以环保理念将泥坯房改建成低碳型“三九坞乡村会所”。这个乡村会所就成了莫干山“洋家乐”的发源地。

沿着用毛竹圈拼成的“395”路牌走进莫干山镇“三九坞”村，只见洋房东悉心装修的生态旅舍与门前的竹林秀水互为映衬，呈现出一派让入住者心旷神怡的“世外桃源”景象。在这里，人们放松、解压并享受低碳环保生活方式。“三九坞”还聘请村里人做“管家”，培训打工的农妇做一桌正宗的西餐，在烧烤、露营和露天音乐会上烹饪村民种养的绿色有机农产品，并在中国春节期间安排外国游客与农家同乐。如此将当地乡风民俗融入西方文化的“洋家乐”很快声名鹊起，凭借它距离杭州、上海仅1至2小时车程的交通之便，许多渴望回归自然的游客纷纷在周末和节假日躲避城市的喧嚣，前往“三九坞”探胜访幽。

这个南非小伙子高天成从中发现了蕴含的商机。2009年起，他又在离“三九坞”不远的筏头乡投资2亿元兴建“裸心谷生态度假村”，倡导游客前来消费自然环保的“裸”生活。与此同时，法国商人司徒夫（Christophe Peres）在骑游大半个中国后也落户森林覆盖率达93%的莫干山，并投资5000万元在莫干山镇仙人坑村建起法式农庄—“莫干山里法国山居”。在这个与竹林茶园相伴的农庄里，用老旧木料和当地石材筑起的客房、酒窖、水库、游泳池和玫瑰花房一应俱全，而与浪漫法式生活情调一起流露的是开发商的环保匠心。如今，这两处高档“洋家乐”不仅深受长三角一些外商和白领的青睐，而且吸引了LV、GUCCI、可口可乐和通用电气等世界著名企业的员工来此聚会。

莫干山下“洋家乐”积极带动了当地“低碳休闲”的乡村旅游业发展。2010年10月，在北京举行的第二届中国低碳旅游建设峰会将德清县评为“中国低碳旅游示范县”。目前，该县通过组织“洋家乐”行业协会、成立涉外休闲度假服务机构和编制《莫干山国际休闲旅游度假区总体规划》等措施，全力营造“洋家乐”低碳旅游新业态发展的良好环境。据德清县旅游局统计，该县已拥有各类“洋家乐”35家，分别由来自南非、法国、英国和比利时等10余个国家的外商投资经营，2011年全县“洋家乐”仅接待入境游客就达5万多人次。

Rural Retreats for Foreigners at Mount Mogan

Text and photographs by Tan Jin, Liu Jiancun

About 200 kilometers from Shanghai in the east and 60 kilometers from Hangzhou in the south, Mount Mogan in northern Zhejiang Province first enchanted the foreign community in Shanghai in the 1880s, for its crisp refreshing breezes, streams, and verdant forest of trees and bamboos. A development boom ensued in the mount in the late 19th and early 20th century. Large European-style villas, houses, churches and public halls were built for missionaries, businesspeople, custom officials and their families.

After 1949 when the People’s Republic was founded, foreigners left and the foreign-styled estates were handed over to the institutions in Shanghai and Hangzhou. However, the mount has remained a tourist attraction in the south of the Yangtze River Delta.

Mount Mogan has become an attraction for foreigners again thanks to Grant Horsfield, a South African, and his partners. In 2007, the young South African bicycled all the way from Shanghai to visit Mount Mogan. The villages at the foot of the mount with dense bamboo forests somehow reminded him of his homeland. After learning that many farmhouses there were idle, Horsfield and his friends leased six adobe houses for 15 years and remodeled them into a resort. They called it 395 Village Resort. The name indicates that originally only nine people of three families lived in the valley.