爱在洛杉矶:一起去逛“爱乐之城”

拍z于洛杉矶的《爱乐之城》不仅讲述了一段关于爱与梦想的故事，更呈现出这座城市优美、浪漫的一面。男女主角穿梭于洛杉矶的地标建筑和经典景点，也带领观众领略到这座“爱乐之城”的动人风采。

Shot in more than 40 locations in L.A.， the musical La La Land is “a love letter to the city，” according to its producer. To coincide with the UK release， we asked a local writer to pick some of the film’s iconic settings.

Judge Harry Pregerson Interchange1）

La La Land’s opening scene is a six-minute dance number2） to the song Another Day of Sun that plays out amid L.A.’s notoriously bad traffic. It’s also where the film’s protagonists， struggling actress Mia （Emma Stone） and jazz pianist Sebastian （Ryan Gosling）， first encounter each other―albeit in a road rage incident. The scene is said to have been filmed over two hot days in a ramp3） at this interchange between the carpool lanes4） of the 105 （Century） and 110 （Harbor） freeways in south L.A. The downtown skyline and surrounding mountains can be seen in the distance.

音乐歌舞片《爱乐之城》在洛杉矶拍摄，取景点超过40个，如其制片人所述，这是“一封写给洛杉矶的情书”。该片在英国上映之际（编注：英文原文发表于今年1月），我们邀请一位洛杉矶当地作家选出了片中的一些标志性背景。

“法官哈利・普雷格森”立交桥

《爱乐之城》的开场是一段六分钟的舞蹈，配乐是《另一个晴朗天》，拍摄背景是洛杉矶尽人皆知的糟糕交通。这也是该片的主人公――努力奋斗的女演员米娅（艾玛・斯通饰）和爵士钢琴家塞巴斯蒂安（瑞恩・高斯林饰）――首次邂逅的地方，尽管是在一次“路怒”事件中。据称，这一幕是在两个炎热的日子里拍摄的，地点是洛杉矶南部105号（世纪）高速公路与110号（港口）高速公路共乘车道交接处的匝道。从这里可以看到远处的市中心天际线和周边的山峰。

Smokehouse5） Restaurant， Burbank6）

This is the setting for the scene in which Mia discovers Sebastian’s talent for the piano. The fictional Lipton’s restaurant―where jazz purist Sebastian grudgingly7） agrees to play Christmas music―is in reality a venerable8） eatery long frequented by actors， producers and other showbiz9） types. It has been on this spot， across the street from the Warner Bros studio， since 1949. In the film， the exterior of Lipton’s is the You Are the Star mural10）， which features Marilyn Monroe， Charlie Chaplin and others， which is on the corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Wilcox Avenue in Hollywood.

Cathy’s Corner， Mount Hollywood Drive

“Not much to look at， huh？” Sebastian cracks11） about the gorgeous city view. “I’ve seen better，” Mia replies. This section of the road that winds through Griffith Park12） is the setting of the duo’s six-minute song-and-dance number， A Lovely Night， after they reconnect at a Hollywood Hills party. It overlooks the San Fernando Valley and features prominently on the film posters. Cathy’s Corner is near famed Mulholland Drive， but prepare for disappointment if you’re expecting a park bench and street lamps. They only exist in the movie.

凯西角，位于好莱坞山道

“没什么好看的，是吧？”塞巴斯蒂安对绚丽的城市景致打趣道。“我见过更美的。”米娅回答道。这段路蜿蜒于格里菲斯公园内，是两人在好莱坞山的一次派对上重逢后表演六分钟歌舞《一个美好的夜晚》的背景地。此地俯瞰圣费尔南多谷，是《爱乐之城》电影海报上的主要元素。凯西角靠近著名的穆赫兰道，但你如果想看到公园长凳和路灯，要做好失望的心理准备，因为它们只存在于电影当中。

烟熏烧烤餐厅，位于伯班克

在这一幕餐厅场景中，米娅发现了塞巴斯蒂安的钢琴演奏才华。影片中虚构的利普顿餐厅，也就是爵士乐纯粹主义者塞巴斯蒂安不情愿地同意演奏圣诞节乐曲的地方，在现实中是一家备受尊崇的餐馆，一直是演员、制片人和其他演艺界人士经常光顾的地方。这家餐馆自1949年以来就位于此地，街对面就是华纳兄弟影城。影片中，利普顿餐厅的外墙上是壁画《你是明星》，上面画着玛丽莲・梦露、查理・卓别林等人，而现实中这幅壁画是位于好莱坞的好莱坞大道与威尔科克斯大街的拐角处。

Warner Bros Studios， Burbank

Mia works at the studio’s coffee shop， where Sebastian comes to meet her. As they wander the studio’s lot， Mia points out “the window that Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman looked out in Casablanca.” It’s one of the film’s numerous nods to movie history. Warner Bros is still a working studio， with 35 sound stages13）， 14 exterior sets， postproduction services and visitor tours. La La Land was also filmed in part at Hollywood Center Studios in Los Angeles.

华纳兄弟影城，位于伯班克

米娅在影城的咖啡馆上班，塞巴斯蒂安来到这里与她见面。他们在影城的场地里散步时，米娅指出了“《卡萨布兰卡》中亨弗莱・鲍嘉和英格丽・褒曼向外看的那扇窗户”。《爱乐之城》多次向电影史致敬，这是其中一处。华纳兄弟仍是一个运营中的制片公司，麾下拥有35个有声电影摄影棚和14个外景地，还提供后期制作服务和游客导览。《爱乐之城》也有一部分是在洛杉矶的好莱坞中心影城拍摄的。

The Lighthouse Cafe， Hermosa Beach

Sebastian introduces Mia to “pure jazz” at this nightclub， which has been a hot spot for jazz since 1949， and shares with her his dream of opening his own club. He later gets a job here as a piano player. Miles Davis， Charles Mingus， Cannonball Adderley and Dizzy Gillespie14） are among the legends who have performed here. Today， the Lighthouse is no longer a jazz-only club; it hosts salsa， country and reggae15）， too. Nearby is Hermosa Beach Pier16）， where Sebastian first sings City of Stars， a recurring song in the film.

羲咖啡馆，位于赫莫萨海滩

这家夜总会从1949年起就是著名的爵士乐演奏场所。在这里，塞巴斯蒂安向米娅介绍了“纯粹的爵士乐”，并跟她分享了自己的梦想――开一家属于自己的俱乐部。后来，他在这里找了一份演奏钢琴的工作。迈尔斯・戴维斯、查尔斯・明格斯、“加农炮”阿德利和迪兹・吉莱斯皮等传奇人物都曾在此演奏。如今，灯塔咖啡馆不再是一个仅演奏爵士乐的俱乐部，这里还演奏萨尔萨舞曲、乡村音乐和雷盖音乐。附近就是赫莫萨海滩码头，塞巴斯蒂安在那儿首次演唱了《星光之城》，这首歌在电影中多次出现。

The Blind Donkey， Long Beach

This bar is the setting of Seb’s jazz club at the end of the film―where Mia and Sebastian have their final， bittersweet encounter. In real life， expect whiskey， wine and beer instead of jazz. Also in Long Beach is the nearby setting of Mia’s pink apartment， shown earlier in the film. Built in 1928 in Spanish colonial style， Rose Towers （1728 E. 3rd St.， Long Beach） is a 20-unit complex that was restored about a decade ago in a project lauded by the Los Angeles Conservancy.

现实中的赫莫萨海滩码头

Jar， a modern American chop house， Central L.A.

Jar is the retro-modern restaurant where Mia abandons her boyfriend， Greg， by walking out on a double date. Opened in 2001， this restaurant has featured in TV series such as Ray Donovan and Modern Family as well as 2009 Paul Rudd rom-com17） I Love You， Man. Noted for its steaks， Jar has been ranked among the city’s best restaurants by local food critics. Shortly after Mia leaves the restaurant―to swelling music―she walks north on Harper Avenue.

“罐”，位于洛杉矶市中心的一家现代美国牛排馆

“罐”是一家现代复古餐厅。就是在这里，参加四人约会的米娅突然离开，丢下了男友格雷格。这家餐厅于2001年开业，曾经出现在《清道夫》《摩登家庭》等电视剧和2009年保罗・路德主演的浪漫喜剧《寻找伴郎》中。“罐”以牛排著称，一直被当地美食评论家评为洛杉矶一流的餐厅。伴着逐渐响起的音乐，米娅离开餐厅，之后不久就沿着哈珀大街向北走去。

盲驴酒吧，位于长滩

这家酒吧是影片末尾塞巴斯蒂安的爵士乐俱乐部的取景地。米娅和塞巴斯蒂安最后一次苦涩与甜蜜掺杂的邂逅就发生在这里。现实生活中，这里有威士忌、红酒和啤酒，但没有爵士乐。电影开头米娅的粉色公寓也在长滩附近取景。玫瑰塔（长滩东三街1728号）建于1928年，西班牙殖民时期风格，是一处包括20套房子的建筑群，大约十年前进行了修复，修复工程得到了洛杉矶文物保护组织的赞许。

Rialto Theatre， South Pasadena18）

The lovers meet here to watch a 10pm screening of Rebel Without a Cause. Dating from 1925 and described by the Los Angeles Times as “an odd mashup19） of Spanish baroque and Egyptian kitsch20），” it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This single-screen cinema， one of the last of its kind in southern California， seats 1，300 people and once hosted vaudeville21） shows. Michael Jackson’s Thriller video was filmed here， as were parts of The Player and Scream 2. It closed in 2007， though there are plans to reopen it.

里尔托电影院，位于南帕萨迪纳

这对恋人在此观看了晚十点放映的一场电影《无因的反叛》。该影院的历史可以追溯至1925年，曾被《洛杉矶时报》称为“西班牙巴洛克风格与埃及庸俗风格的奇怪混搭”，被收入了《国家史迹名录》。这家单银幕影院是南加州尚存的几家此类影院之一，有1300个座位，曾经是杂耍表演场地。迈克尔・杰克逊的《颤栗》的录像带就是在此拍摄的，电影《玩家》和《惊声尖叫2》也有部分场景在此拍摄。该影院于2007年关张，不过如今有计划让其重新开张。

Griffith Observatory， Griffith Park

From Cathy’s Corner， Mia and Sebastian continue their date at this 1935 art deco22） landmark and tourist attraction， named for Welsh industrialist and philanthropist Griffith J. Griffith. Though his reputation was marred when he was prosecuted in 1903 for shooting his wife， the observatory named after him is well-loved and offers popular planetarium shows and spectacular views of the city and the nearby Hollywood sign. It was also the site of the knife fight scene in 1955’s Rebel without a Cause， commemorated by a bust of its star， James Dean.

格里菲斯天文台，位于格里菲斯公园

离开凯西角后，米娅和塞巴斯蒂安来到这处1935年开放的装饰派艺术地标继续约会，这里也是著名的旅游景点。该天文台以威尔士实业家、慈善家格里菲斯・J・格里菲斯命名。1903年，他因枪击妻子被，声名受损。尽管如此，以他名字命名的这座天文台深受人们喜爱。这里放映广受欢迎的天文馆节目，人们还能由此观赏洛杉矶的壮丽景色和附近的好莱坞标志。这里还是1955年《无因的反叛》中斗剑场景的拍摄地，立有该片明星詹姆斯・迪恩的半身雕像以示纪念。