大红大紫之前的Top Chef

Sooner or later Jacky Xue will end up in a European-style house with a nice garden and terrace in Shanghai’s prestigious French Concession. His Italian restaurant might still be called “Top Chef”, as the current one on the humble Mengzi Road. But the new restaurant won’t be so easily accessible. We might have to wait for three months for a table, even if we are happy to swallow an astronomic bill, for Jacky’s will almost certainly be a Michelin one-star or two-star, even three-star restaurant hotly pursued by movie stars, celebrities and everyone else who wants to be seen at the right place. It is unlikely that Jacky will come to pick up the phone himself and humor our willful dining habits anymore. Before that day inevitably comes, let’s “Occupy Top Chef” for the moment.

A restaurant that might delight a TV playwright

I have watched a lot of Japanese TV dramas and I think Jacky’s restaurant on Mengzi Road in Shanghai might delight an observant Japanese playwright. One walks in and can immediately sense that there are many stories going on, and there are many colorful characters with interesting life stories coming to this place. But why Mengzi road? Why not the French Concession, Xintiandi, the Bund and Lujiazui?

“This is my first own restaurant and I don’t want to start with an exorbitant rent,” admitted Jacky, “But I know guests would find out and come, for my dishes are simply too good,” he was quick to add. Indeed, the restaurant broke even in three months. Don’t take your chance with Top Chef – you need to book in advance to secure a table.

“Out of 100 guests, 96 come back frequently, 4 regret that they don’t live in Shanghai. They always take away a large pile of cards to distribute to their friends,” Jacky proudly told me.

“Your guests seem to be rich guys of leisure?”

“Probably, I don’t see a lot of young couples.” Jacky has a lot of Japanese guests, who seem to be particularly fastidious on the one hand and extremely appreciative on the other. There is this Japanese guy who either eats in or goes to Jacky’s; there are no other options. He often takes a taxi at midday, coming all the way from Jiangsu Road, has a full course for two hours, and leaves with great satisfaction.

Our conversation was frequently interrupted, for Jacky had to stand up to say hi to guests constantly walking in. The reason he knows his guests so well because he spends half of his time chatting with guests and finds out what they really like, so he can serve better.

Jacky is at the restaurant for 365 days a year. In principle he doesn’t take days off. When he did, he went away for a month to Europe. His guests were supportive, knowing he would come back with great new ideas. Some told him, “Don’t worry about the restaurant, we will watch it over for you and make sure your staff work as hard.”

Jacky had an unforgettable meal in Tre Caci on the outskirt of Florence. He had lobster grilled at 450 degree with sea salt. He loved it so much that he put it on his menu as soon as he went back to work.

Senior expatriate executives sometimes beg Jacky to offer catering services for their corporate functions for 200, 600 people. Jacky summons his part-time crew, his old pupils and protégés. The crew would often have to work for 24-hour in a row for a large event. They work hard but are always gratified.

Jacky is not thirty yet. Top Chef cannot quite conceal the purity, innocence, energy and excitement of the young chef and his young crew. As the Brits love to say, Jacky’s is the best-kept secret of the town.

“Not talented”

I watched Jacky making a new dish in his small kitchen - lamb sausage. Jacky used New Zealand lamb and took the part on the leg with some fat. An assistant put the lamb in a grinder for half an hour, adding a dozen of imported spices – sea salt, black pepper, shredded onion, garlic powder, olive oil, button, cumin and locally-sourced rosemary. Jacky took a spoon and put it in the oven. He tasted it and added more salt to the grinder. He then used his fingers to carefully open the small intestines of the goat and added some olive oil, to make the inside smooth. He inserted grinded lamb into the intestines and had a knot at every 6cm interval.

“Once clients have ordered, we would cut three sections and put it into oven,” explained Jacky. “This is a classical Spanish dish, and we are probably the first restaurant in Shanghai to offer it.” said Jacky.

“Jacky, is top chef born or trained?”

“I had no talents whatsoever,” Jacky was very honest. “I grew up in an ordinary family and was happy to be fed with whatever available. I started to appreciate fine food only after I studied with my Japanese master. I was the dumbest one and was scolded more than anyone else. But nobody worked as hard and eventually I turned out to be the best.”

Jacky wouldn’t tell me the name of his Japanese master, except that he was the No. 1 Italian chef in Japan and rather low key. Jacky studied under him for four years, including two years in a Ginza restaurant in Tokyo. He had to put in 14-15 hours of work every day, but he never complained and it simply never occurred to him to give up. Nevertheless Jacky is extremely grateful to his master and for his experience in Japanese. He said it proved better than spending 6-7 years in Italy. He had learned the Japanese work ethics and pursuit of excellence, which is extremely important.

Jacky did eventually go to Italy, spending two years at ICIF, a famous cooking school in Turin. Before graduation, the principal recommended him to the chief executive of the Italian Pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo 2010. The chief executive had asked him to make two courses as an exam. Jacky made a simple mixed appetizer and the chief executive said, “Don’t bother making the second one. You are superior to us Italians.” Jacky ended up working for 6 months at the Italian pavilion, working on Berlusconi’s 1600-people banquet, the Ferrari reception and all the other high-profile events.

“Jacky, why are you so great?”

“I learn the best of three worlds – the exquisiteness and dedication of the Japanese, the artistic expression and fine tastes of the Europeans and the flexibility of the Chinese. I simply put it all together.”

Jacky told me chefs need to be extremely sensitive about the quality and possibility of ingredients. Without best ingredients, all the skills in the world lead you nowhere. That’s why some Michelin chefs came to Shanghai and eventually left in dismay.

In a business with notorious high turnover, Jacky’s team is remarkably stable. Jacky said his employees would not leave for double the pay. At Top Chef, it is not just a job; it is a dream, a stage where you can change your life with your hard work, just like the boss that you adore.

Michelin star not a dream

Mainland China doesn’t have a Michelin three-star chef yet. Will Jacky be the first one?

“It is certainly my dream, but let’s take one thing at a time.”

Jacky dreams of opening a premium restaurant in an old European house with a garden in the French Concession; one that serves 60 people at maximum at the same time. To be awarded Michelin one star, two stars and even three stars, Jacky thinks his cooking skills are more than enough. But a top restaurant “worthy of a special trip” offers more than food. Everything needs to be perfect, interior décor, table setting, lighting, fabric, cellar and services. “I want to focus on what I am doing now, building up a fantastic team. I am not into making fast money quick. I will focus on quality and my dream. And to make finest cuisine, one has to be freed from financial considerations. This is in conflict with economic interests.”

Isn’t some wise woman saying that after London in the sixties, and Hong Kong in the seventies and eighties, it is Shanghai having the best of times now? They will be balls, parties, weddings, receptions for those who have made it. Jacky will have enough clients who are more than willing to pay for his ingenuous creations regardless of costs. But that will take him away from his restaurant more and more. I am a bit lost at what we eaters really want, masterpieces or delightful, relaxed and above all affordable dining experiences? Jacky speaks Japanese like a native. He also speaks English and Italian fluently. How long can the unassuming Mengzi Road keep this unstoppable rising star?

几年之后，也许要不了那么久，Jacky会藏身于上海曾是法租界的花园洋房，他的餐厅门口挂上米其林的标牌。那个常来餐桌边跟客人聊天，亲自接客人电话，满足他们各种任性要求的主厨，也许就此消失。而我们这些在他大红大紫之前支持他的本埠客，大概也要每次等上3个月的时间，才能定到一张桌子。趁他被美食界、媒体、名流追捧之前，一定要多去几次蒙自路上的Top Chef意大利餐厅，让美味和幸福，绽放你的齿尖和心尖。

Jacky的店里故事多

蒙自路虽然在上海市中心的卢湾区，但怎么也挤不进大上海的美食和时尚地图。老上海的外滩、法租界、西郊，虽历经沧桑劫难，仍不失排场、贵族品质和风情，自有怀旧客流连；新上海的新天地、陆家嘴、联洋，引领潮流新概念，是雅皮士们see and to be seen的地点（“看别人，被人看”）。自称Top Chef（顶级主厨），为什么要屈身蒙自路呢？

“因为我对我的菜品有绝对的信心，不怕真正懂得美食的人不上门。”Jacky（薛哲君）这样回答。果然，由于租金压力小，Top Chef的性价比极佳，开店3个月就盈亏平衡。如今，中午和晚上客人随便走进已不会有空桌，必须事先订座。

“100个客人中96个成为回头客，另外4个叹息他们不住在上海。临别时他们会带走一大叠我的名片，介绍他们的朋友来上海时一定要到我的店来吃一顿。”Jacky不无得意。

“你的客人，一定都有钱又有闲吧？”我问Jacky。

“可能是这样，小年轻是没有的。”Jacky答，经常光顾Top Chef的客人很多。有位久居上海的日本客人，从来不去上海的日餐厅，外出就餐只有Top Chef一家餐厅。他住在江苏路，常常中午叫辆出租车来，吃上两个小时，从前菜、主食，一直吃完整个全套才心满意足地离去。

Jacky不断地跟走进来的客人打招呼，聊上几句。之所以这么熟悉客人，是因为他一半的时间都在外场（就餐区）。Jacky认为跟客人聊天，才知道他们喜欢什么，可以更好地为他们服务。

Jacky去欧洲度假，客人们都很期待，希望他带回一些新菜的灵感。有些客人对他说，“你安心地旅行，我们帮你看店，看你的员工表现如何。”

Jacky去了佛罗伦萨郊外的Tre Caci（三兄弟餐厅），吃了一份一开二的海盐胡椒450度焦香烤龙虾，感动不已。回沪之后，整只烤龙虾果然上了菜单。

有些公司的外籍高管，央求Jacky给他们做一场600人的出场餐饮活动，Jacky答应了。Jacky有一支兼职游击队，都是他以前的徒弟或下属。做一场600人的活动，这支团队要24小时连轴转，辛苦并幸福着。

Jacky的餐厅，是那种你在欧洲城市后巷，偶然发现让你惊喜不已的秘密。这个不到30岁的小伙子，悄悄在谦卑的蒙自路上书写自己的传奇。

“没有天分”的偶像主厨

我走进Jacky的小厨房，他正带领助理做一道新菜——羊腿肉肠。新西兰羊腿肉带肥带精，先在绞肉机里上劲约半小时，加入十几种进口香料——海盐、黑胡椒、洋葱碎、大蒜末、橄榄油、黄油、孜然和本地的迷迭香。Jacky从绞肉机中舀了一勺肉，送入烤箱中烤，尝尝味道，感觉不够味，于是又往绞肉机中补了一点细盐。然后，他用手指拨开洁白的羊小肠，加一点橄榄油，肠内壁，把绞好的羊腿肉轻松地塞进去，在每6厘米处用绳子打个结。

“客人点菜后，剪下三段进烤箱，然后就可以装盘了。这其实是一道西班牙古典菜，我相信我们是上海第一家推出这个菜的餐厅。” Jacky向我介绍。

“Jacky，名厨是天生的吗？”

“我一点天分都没有，小时候生活条件一般，吃饱算数，跟了日本师傅学艺，才知道什么东西好吃。我是最笨的那一个，经常被师傅骂。但是，没有人比我更用功。最后，我是最出色的那一个。”

Jacky的日本师傅，据说是日本第一意大利名厨。Jacky跟他学艺4年，在日本银座餐厅的两年，每天工作14~15个小时，矢志不渝。

Jacky非常感谢他的日本师傅和这段在日本的经历。他坦言，如果没有学到日本人全力以赴、精益求精的工作态度，哪怕他在意大利学艺6~7年，也不会有今天的成就。

Jacky在都灵的ICIF厨师学校学习了2年。毕业前校长把他推荐给上海世博会意大利馆的馆长，馆长要求他做2道菜作为考试。Jacky只做了一个混合前菜拼盘，馆长就说，“第二道菜不用做了，你比我们意大利人的手艺还好。”就这样，Jacky在世博会意大利馆工作了6个月，为意大利总理贝卢斯科尼1600人的宴会服务，还做了法拉利的招待会等无数活动。

“Jacky，你为什么这么棒？”

“我只是学什么像什么。日本人的精致和执着、欧洲人的艺术品味，中国人的变通，我把这些糅合在一起罢了。”

厨师要对食材有特殊的敏感，没有好的原料，再高的手艺也没有用。Jacky说，好几个米其林大厨来到上海，找不到满意的食材，黯然离场。

“那你怎么解决食材的问题？”

“我有很多供应商。生蚝的，龙虾的、毛蟹的，等等等等。我平时很随和，一进厨房就换了一个人。我的供应商压力都很大，知道他们稍有懈怠，就过不了关。”

Jacky的员工都把老板视为偶像，对他们而言，Top Chef不只是一份工作，而是实现梦想、靠双手改变生活的舞台。

米其林之星不是梦

中国内地似乎还没有一位米其林三星厨师，Jacky能否率先问鼎这一殊荣呢？

“我当然有这个梦想，但是我并不着急。”

Jacky的梦想，是找一个花园洋房，开一家容纳60人左右的高级餐厅。他认为要评上米其林的1星、2星乃至3星，他的烹饪技术早已不是问题。但一家顶级餐馆，要给客人带来一次整体的完美体验，还需要室内装修、餐桌餐布、灯光配饰、酒窖、服务等等细节。“我要慢慢地建立起团队的能力，我想的不是赚钱，而是品质和梦想。而且，真正顶级的菜品，要不惜代价来制作，这跟商业利益是有冲突的。”

如今的上海，又有点十里洋场的味道。我想将来Jacky一定有足够的舞台，施展他的绝艺——上流社会的婚礼、生日宴、纪念日？世界级公司的庆典、会？领馆的宴会？下一个世博级的盛事？

即使没有米其林的加冕，Jacky薛的传奇也不会褪色。可是这个会说流利日语、英语、意大利语的年轻厨师，蒙自路还能留他多久呢？