都灵:挑动你的味蕾

本期“环球风情”栏目将兵分两路，带大家到意大利和古巴品尝当地最地道的美酒佳肴。第一路人马前往美食家的天堂意大利，品尝都灵的顶级美食；另一队人则抵达古巴首都哈瓦那，到访海明威生前最爱的人气酒吧。

肚子好饿呀！Let’s go!

Italy’s Piedmont region is hidden in the extreme northwest, 1)nestled against the French border. One of the most important economic and industrial

areas of the country, Piedmont also 2)boasts natural gifts in her mountains and lakes. Perhaps mercifully, this beautiful corner of Italy has been 3)bypassed by the armies of tourists who have captured Venice,

Florence and Rome. That is about to change.

Turin, the capital, is no longer 4)anonymous after hosting the 20th Winter Olympic Games in 2006. Home to 862,000, Turin is at the same time

5)enchanting and modern, glorious and 6)passionate.

Forget the 13th century baroque architecture of the Savoy family

7)dynasty, which ruled the city until 1536 when it was 8)occupied by the French. Forget the modern industrial

9)powerhouse of Italy’s automobile industry注, and don’t think about the city’s 10)exceptional art collections. Just what do people eat?

Italians do not often miss a good meal, and Turin is no exception. But with the large variety of bread, 11)pasta, cheese, meat, fish and wine to choose from, you need a bit of advice. The truth is, just about

anything will taste good; but I found the best foods of Turin to be 12)truffles, Barolo wine and chocolate.

The truffle is a 13)fungus that grows just below ground among the roots of hardwood trees. While the black truffle offers a mild flavor that 14)diminishes with cooking, its royal cousin, the white truffle, has a strong, powerful taste that stands up to pasta, 15)risotto or any meat. Available in limited areas and only in late autumn, Italy’s most precious white truffles come from around Turin, and are expensive.

Truffle collection is 16)shrouded in 17)stealth.

Specially bred dogs search the treasure for their

masters. Once removed from the ground and wrapped carefully in linen handkerchiefs, the prize is carried to local markets. Prices for white truffles (which are ten times as expensive as black truffles) usually exceed US$ 1,000 per pound.

Hours later, your waiter shaves 18)wafer-thin 19)slices onto your meal. The number of shavings determines the price. The rich, smoky and 20)aromatic delight is worth every euro.

Wash down your truffles with a glass of Barolo, which has a deep 21)garnet color and rich flavor. Barolo is produced from the finest of the nebbiolo grapes. Nebbiolo is 22)derived from the Italian word nebbia, for fog. The grapes are harvested in late October, when the thick fog settles into the Barolo region.

Barolo is aged a 23)minimum of three, but more commonly up to eight years before it is sold. Top Barolo wines are considered Italy’s

best. In a typical Turin restaurant, expect to pay US$ 50-75 for a good bottle. Some labels will run over US$ 100.

For dessert, you can’t miss the local chocolate. Turin’s love affair with chocolate dates back to the 16th century, when Emmanuel Philbert of the ruling house of Savoy 24)toasted victory over the French with a cup of steaming hot chocolate.

By the mid-1700s, Turin’s politicians,

artists and nobles met regularly in the fine

cafés where they enjoyed bicerin, a mix of hot chocolate, 25)espresso and 26)whipped cream. The drink is still a tradition today.

Nowadays, Turin is filled with small,

27)elegant shops selling every shape, size and variety of the chocolate, including milk

chocolate and bittersweet.

It is easy to fall in love with Turin. The elegant architecture and museums will satisfy your

intellectual curiosity. The 28)bohemian bar and music scene exceed expectations. And everyone will be happy with the three 29)culinary

superstars: truffles, Barolo wine and chocolate.

意大利的皮德蒙特地区隐藏在该国的西北之极，紧靠着法国边界。这里不仅是意大利最重要的经济和工业区之一，其山川湖泊之中更蕴藏着大自然对她的丰厚恩赐。或许是得到上天的眷顾，俘虏了威尼斯、佛罗伦萨和罗马的游客大军以前竟没有入侵意大利这个美丽的角落。但那很快就要改变。

在2006年举办了第20届冬季奥运会之后，皮德蒙特地区的首府都灵不再默默无闻。这个拥有86.2万人的城市既有迷人魅力和现代气息，又富丽堂皇，激情洋溢。

让我们暂且不提萨瓦王朝（都灵在1536年被法国占领之前一直由其统治）在13世纪的巴洛克建筑；忘记都灵扮演着意大利汽车工业动力工厂的角色，也忽略它不同凡响的艺术珍品。只想想，那里的人都吃些什么？

意大利人通常不会错过任何一顿美餐，都灵人当然也不例外。只是当你面对这么多可供选择的面包、面食、奶酪、肉、鱼和酒时，总需要一点建议吧。实际上，每一样都很好吃。但就我来说，都灵最好的美食当属松露、巴罗洛葡萄酒和巧克力。

松露是一种生长在地下的真菌，藏于阔叶树根部之间。黑松露味道清淡柔和，在烹调中气味会减弱；而它的王族近亲白松露则味道浓郁，与面食、意大利调味饭或任何肉类同煮仍然可以保留原来的香味。意大利最珍贵的白松露来自都灵附近，只在少数地区的深秋季节出产，价格高昂。

松露的采集极其隐密。受过特别训练的狗会为主人搜寻这种宝贝。松露一旦从地里采出，便被小心翼翼地包在亚麻布手帕里，然后这个战利品就会被送到当地市场上。白松露要价一般都超过1000美元/磅，是黑松露的十倍之高。

数小时后，侍者将薄得像威化饼一样的松露片削入你的饭食中，削片的数目决定其价格。这种味道浓郁、带有烟熏芬芳的享受，绝不会浪费你为之付出的每一欧元。

喝上一杯巴罗洛葡萄酒冲走嘴里剩余的松露。这种酒颜色如石榴般深红，味道醇厚。巴罗洛葡萄酒用上佳的“内比奥罗”葡萄酿制。“内比奥罗”这个字源自意大利语的“nebbia”，意为“雾”。这种葡萄的收获季节在十月底，正是浓雾笼罩巴罗洛地区的时节。

巴罗洛葡萄酒最少要经过三年――但一般是八年的酿制才可以出售。上乘的巴罗洛葡萄酒被视为意大利最好的酒。在一家地道的都灵餐馆，一瓶好的巴罗洛酒一般要50到75美元，有些牌子的价格还超过100美元。

至于甜点，你绝对不能错过当地的巧克力。都灵人对巧克力的爱可追溯到16世纪，当时统治意大利的萨瓦家族的埃马纽埃尔・菲尔伯特以一杯热气腾腾的巧克力庆祝对法战争取得胜利。

到了18世纪中期，都灵的政客、艺术家和贵族经常在上等咖啡厅里举行聚会，品尝博瑟林巧克力热饮――一种由热巧克力、意大利特浓咖啡和生奶油调制而成的混合饮品。这种饮品已经成为传统，一直保留到今天。

在如今的都灵，出售巧克力的雅致小店随处可见。（在店里）可以找到形状各异、大小不一、种类繁多的巧克力，其中包括牛奶巧克力和苦甜巧克力等。

你很容易就会爱上都灵。典雅的建筑和博物馆将满足你好奇的求知欲，波希米亚酒吧和音乐场所也美妙得超乎想象。所有人都会心满意足地享用都灵美食三宝――松露、巴罗洛葡萄酒和巧克力。

注：都灵是意大利的汽车城及欧洲最大的汽车产地，也是意大利菲亚特公司的总部所在地。