醇香的酒,唯美的匈牙利

匈牙利的美，

如醇香的酒，经过时光的窖藏与岁月的沉淀，

散发着成熟的风致与古典的韵味。

今年十月，

我们来到这个盛产美酒的国家，

时值葡萄收获的金秋。

我们在匈牙利著名酒庄(HUNGARIAN WINE FAMILY)老板乔博(Gergely Csaba)的陪同下，以美酒引路，开始了匈牙利葡萄酒文化之旅。

从布达佩斯出发，向东北驱车行驶130公里，就到了匈牙利北部著名的葡萄酒产区埃格尔（Eger），即是闻名遐迩的“公牛血”葡萄酒的故乡。

5000多公顷葡萄园坐落在连绵的火山群中。这里独特的火山土质和温暖的气候适合多种葡萄的生长：赤霞珠、梅洛、贵人香等， 品质极其优良。

埃格尔还是匈牙利北部高地最美丽的风景区。群山环绕着拥有千余年历史的埃格尔古城。步入这座恬静优美的小城，随处可见的前巴洛克风格的建筑，使这座城市散发着独特的地中海情调。城中的埃格尔大教堂是匈牙利第二大教堂，始建于圣・伊斯特万国王统治时期（公元1001年起），在公元1241年毁于蒙古铁骑。后来重建。1248年，在匈牙利大主教的要求下，建成了保护教堂的坚固的石头城堡，从上面可以俯瞰全城。

The beauty of Hungary like a mellow wine, after long time of accretion and storage, radiates mature charm and classic appeal. In this October, a grape harvest time, we came to this country which is famous for its perfect wines. Accompanied by Gergely Csaba, manager of the famous Hungarian Wine Family, we began our cultural trip to Hungarian wines.

Setting out from Budapest, after a drive of 130 kilometers in the northeast, we arrived at Eger, a famous wine region in the north of Hungary, which is the hometown of the well-known Egri Bikaver (Bull's Blood of Eger).

Eger is also the most beautiful sightseeing spot in Hungarian North Highland. The over-one-thousand-year-old town of Eger is surrounded by hills. The Eger cathedral in the town is the second largest in Hungary, which was built during the reign of King Szent István (AD 1001) and was destroyed by the Mongolian cavalry, and later got rebuilt. In the year of 1248, out of the request of Hungary archbishop, it was rebuilt as a sturdy stone castle to protect the cathedral, from whose top people can have a birdview of the whole town.

相传，在16世纪中叶，土耳其人大举进攻埃格尔城，当地2000多军民和15万土耳其军队对抗，在敌我力量如此悬殊的情况下，匈牙利勇士们凭借坚固的城堡，错综复杂的街巷和地道，与土军激战了38昼夜，击退了敌人一次又一次的进攻；终因敌众我寡，城破在即。新的一轮进攻即将开始，埃格尔军民饱餐畅饮，喝的便是当地特产的美酒。这种酒是由多种葡萄酿造而成的，色泽浓艳如血。匈牙利勇士们借着酒力勇猛地冲向土耳其军队；埃格尔人个个面红耳赤，很多人甚至在脸上涂洒了葡萄酒。土耳其人见状，误以为他们脸上涂的是公牛的鲜血，他们惊恐万分，四散而逃，溃不成军…… 这就是世界战争史上以少胜多的著名战例――埃格尔保卫战，也就是“公牛血”葡萄酒诨号的由来。

埃格尔大教堂附近，有一座被当地人称作“WINE HOUSE”的建筑，进入其中大厅，可以看到四壁排列的是与屋顶齐高的古朴的木质酒架,或堆或叠地码放着数千瓶葡萄酒。酒屋中间散放着几套木桌椅。旁边的一个房间用铁栅栏锁着，透过栅栏，可以看到里面风格各异的酒和酒具，陈列风格独特，令人赏心悦目。同伴问我：这里是酒吧？是餐馆？还是酒陈列室？“酒坊！”“对！”“酒坊！”的确，用这个中文词翻译“WINE HOUSE”，再贴切不过。

同行的彼得（Drahos Peter）盛情邀我们坐下品酒。这位埃格尔最大酒庄的老板兼首席酿酒师为我们斟上深红的“公牛血”。埃格利公牛血葡萄酒(Egri Bikaver)是匈牙利最著名的干红葡萄酒。这种酒是用单独采摘的赤霞珠，梅洛等不同品种的葡萄酿制混合而成的，集中了各种葡萄酒的优点。斟上一杯埃格利公牛血葡萄酒，轻轻晃动酒杯，凝视着美丽如画的挂杯，醇厚清香的葡萄气味扑面而来：适中的丹宁，饱满的口感，沁人心脾，回味悠长，佐以埃格尔的山区野味，简直是绝配！那深红色的酒浆仿佛蕴涵着冲天豪气，堪称“血色男儿酒”！品味着厚重的“公牛血”，耳边隐隐传来的仿佛是数百年前埃格尔古战场的拼杀声，似乎在为我们品酒助威助兴！

这时，古教堂的钟声响起，低沉的声音在黄昏中回荡，犹如兵器在碰撞，战马在嘶鸣。教堂附近，年龄不一的孩子们在喷水池边，在圣徒的青铜像边，嬉戏玩耍。酒馆的街边露天座里，一对对情侣在悄声私语。放眼远处，几座数百年前建造的了望塔清晰可见，塔的后面，时隐时现的是那落日的余晖，仿佛在为这幅恬淡闲定的画面勾勒一道浓重而生动的金边……

Legend has it that in the middle of 16th century, Turkish military attacked Eger in an enormous number. The local 2000 soldiers and civilians confronted the 150, 000 Turkish soldiers. Faced by the great difference of the strength, the brave Eger people with the help of their solid castle, and complicated streets and tunnels, they fought furiously with the Turks as long as 38 days and nights, and held back their attacks time and time again. However, the town at last was still in danger of falling into the hand of the Turks, because of their much larger number. Before the start of another attack, the Eger people had a good drinking of their local red wine, which was brewed by various kinds of grapes and was of a bloody color. Stirred by the wine, the Hungary people crashed into the Turkish army, with blood on the faces, even many having smeared their faces with the wine. The Turks thought that the Eger people had smeared their faces with the bull’s blood, and so got totally scared, and ran away. This is the famous pit-one-against-ten battle in the world war history ----- Eger Defense; and this is also the origin of the nickname of Egri Bikaver.

Egri Bikaver is the most celebrated dry wine in Hungary. It is a blending of the brews of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other different grapes which are plucked separately, and hence has an integration of merits of various wines. While enjoying the strong Eger Bikaver, we seem to hear the sounds from the ancient battle field hundreds of years ago, which must be cheering for our drinking.

埃格尔的西部，是匈牙利的另一个重要葡萄酒产地马特拉（Matra）。如果说埃格尔是红葡萄酒的故乡，那么马特拉就是白葡萄酒的王国。这里风光秀丽，葡萄种植面积达7000公顷，主要分布在匈牙利海拔最高的马特拉山南麓。马特拉还拥有匈牙利著名的林区，周围环绕着肥沃的火山灰土和起伏不平的山谷带，这里的土壤中含有大量的微量元素和白圭。马特拉地区的白葡萄酒以酸味浓、质量高、酒色清且易保存而享誉欧洲。

好客的酒庄主人为收获季节繁忙而慢待客人表示歉意，他开启了一瓶马特拉好酒“卢奈尔麝香晚摘甜白葡萄酒”（Muscat Lunel）。主人告诉我们，卢奈尔麝香葡萄原产于波斯帝国，经希腊商人传到欧洲，并由其种植地之一的法国卢奈尔城而得名。十九世纪，法国的一位国王偶饮此酒，大加赞赏，称之为绝世佳酿，赐名卢奈尔麝香酒。该葡萄酒原料的采摘比普通葡萄酒要晚约一个月，所以葡萄已充分浓缩，自然含糖量非常高，用这样的葡萄酿成的酒可以长期储存，是极佳的甜点配餐酒。这种酒经过10摄氏度左右的冷藏，气味浓郁，芳香，入口后会感到一种异常的甘甜，并略带清爽的回酸。卢奈尔麝香酒的酒瓶也别具一格，带有浓郁的匈牙利民族风格，和醇美的佳酿真是珠联璧合。

在马特拉和埃盖尔地区的东北，距布达佩斯200多公里处，是举世闻名的托卡伊(Tokaj)地区，是匈牙利另一个重要的葡萄酒产地。托卡伊山麓蜿蜒着6000公顷的葡萄种植园，这里自然生态环境优良，12世纪起就开始成为著名的葡萄酒产地。时值16世纪中叶，托卡伊已经以出产世界上最卓越的甜白葡萄酒“托卡伊奥苏”(Tokaji aszu)而闻名。我们走进托卡伊的一个长达3公里的酒窖，酒窖顶上布满了有益于净化空气和保温的绿色霉菌。酒窖里还不时可见有数百年历史的雕像，还有同样年纪已被弃用的品酒台和烧烤炉（还配有通风设备，以防油烟破坏酒窖里的空气质量）。当然最多的还是储存着大量陈年托卡伊葡萄酒的一个又一个酒库。

据史料记载，马特拉地区酿酒历史悠久。传说700年前，法国人入侵马特拉山区的珍珠城堡，把三个美丽的童贞女锁进黑暗的地下室，让她们在沐浴之后赤身地踏踩葡萄：第一瓶马特拉葡萄酒就是这样产生的。

To the west of Eger is Matra, another important winegrowing region in Hungary. If we say Eger is the hometown of red wine, then Matra is the kingdom of white wine. Matra is a gorgeous town; grape-district has occupied as large as 7,000 hectares, mainly in the South Matra Mountains, the highest in Hungary. Matra also boasts its famous woods. Nourished by the fertile volcano ash and surrounded by the wavy valleys, soil here is rich in trace elements Matra white wines own a prestige in Europe for its high acidity, optimum quality, limpidity and easy storage.

According to the documents, Matra region has a long winegrowing history. It is said that about 700 years ago when the French invaded the Pearle Castle of the Matra Mountains they locked three pretty virgins into a dark basement, and had them tramp naked upon grapes after bath: this is how the first Matra wine came about.

To the northwest of Matra and Eger, about 200 kilometers to Budapest is the worldwide known Tokaj, another important winegrowing in Hungary. In the Tokaj mountains meander 6,000 hectares of vineyards. Thanks to the agreeable natural environment, it has been a prestigious winegrowing region since the 12th century. And since the middle of the 16th century Tokaj has become well-know n for its most outstanding sweet white wine Tokaji aszu. In Tokaj we walked into a 3-kilometers-long cellar; its ceiling was full of green mould which served to clean the air and keep the temperature. In the cellar there were quite a few historic sculptures, and the same aging wine-tasting platform and ovens which had been out of use (there is also ventilation system lest the smoke damage the air quality of the cellar). Of course the largest number is of the oak hogshead holding the old Tokaji Aszu.

酒窖里还设有品酒室，走进这私密的圆形空间，看见中央是一个直径2米的圆形石桌，石桌上方有一个巨大的青铜吊灯，灯下的石桌上排列着10种著名的托卡伊甜葡萄酒，其中有3种晚收甜酒(Late harvest sweet wine) ，一种冰酒(Icewine)，4种托卡伊奥苏(Tokaji aszu)，和一种名贵的纯奥苏贵腐浓汁（Esszencia）。我们靠墙坐在锈迹斑驳的铁椅上，铁椅边的小桌上点着蜡烛。蜡烛两边各有一个杯子。有人不断往杯子里斟酒。斟酒的是酒庄合伙人，一个不苟言笑的匈牙利小伙儿。我们静静地品尝晚收甜酒的甘美与舒爽，冰酒的甜蜜与清冽，奥苏的优雅与浓郁，纯奥苏贵腐浓汁的沉稳与华贵。四轮品酒下来，我们真像欣赏过世界顶级的弦乐四重奏，我听到我和同伴们的心正在歌唱。我不禁想起书中的一段关于匈牙利葡萄酒的有趣文字，特抄录如下：

“王者之酒，酒中之王”，这是十七世纪法国国王路易十四赐给托卡伊奥苏 (Tokaji aszu) 的封号。托卡伊奥苏葡萄酒基本的原料是利用匈牙利东北部卡伊山麓生长的晚熟的福尔明白葡萄 (Furmint) 和哈斯莱威路白葡萄 (Harslevelu) 酿制的高品质的葡萄酒。一般到了秋天，晚熟的整串白葡萄，被一种名叫“Botrytis Cinerea”的真菌在自然的作用下产生变化，将还挂在树上的白葡萄变成了晚收成、甜如蜜的“奥苏干葡萄”(Aszu grapes)。

农妇们从葡萄串上摘选出最佳的奥苏干葡萄送去加工。酿酒师把精挑细选的奥苏干葡萄粒作成贵腐浓汁。再根据加工等级的要求将贵腐浓汁混合到136公升装有已酿造了两年优良的托卡伊葡萄酒的木桶中。托卡伊有一种25公升容器叫做puttony，要是每一个136公升的木桶中混合了3个puttony 份量的贵腐葡萄浓汁，就可以看到木桶上标示着“3 puttony”，以此类推4、5、6 puttony。贵腐葡萄汁混合了之后，经过36-48小时的发酵后，用低压挤出，然后再被装入大木桶中，送入托卡伊山麓的酒窖存放。托卡伊的传统酿酒法规定，每混合一个puttony (25公升)时，就必须在橡木桶中多存放一年，所以依据放入的贵腐葡萄浓汁的数量来决定地窖木桶存放期。最高等级是6 puttony的托卡伊葡萄酒，这种葡萄酒在一般葡萄酒存放两年之外还要再经地窖大木桶存放六年，只有达到长达八年的存放期，才能装瓶上市。托卡伊奥苏葡萄酒在摄氏15度饮用最佳，是搭配甜点饮用的点心酒。

对托卡伊奥苏葡萄酒青睐有加的名人有：法国太阳王路易十四，英国奥利弗-克伦威尔大公，俄国沙皇彼得大帝和女沙皇卡特琳娜。俄国沙皇还曾为保证这种名贵葡萄酒的供应而驻兵托卡伊地区。

托卡伊奥苏葡萄酒自古就被载入匈牙利药典，直到近四十年才从医生的处方药品中正式剥离。据记载，教皇庇护一世遵医嘱每日小酌一杯这种名贵葡萄酒，以保健康。此外，贝多芬、舒伯特、伏尔泰和歌德都十分喜爱喝托卡伊葡萄酒。在众多匈牙利文学著作中，托卡伊葡萄酒是不可或缺的题材。甚至连匈牙利国歌歌词中都少不了它。

给我们一行人留下最深最美好印象的是美酒之旅的最后一站，那是在埃格尔产区和托卡伊产区之间的戴伯亚（Debro）产区，是一个只有2000多公顷葡萄园的小型产区。但在匈牙利，它却以出产高品质的葡萄酒而著称。戴伯亚酒庄是一个家族企业，负责人是极为朴实可爱的父子俩。听说父亲刚刚大病初愈，但他却非常热情地带领我们参观了正在采摘的大片葡萄园。这里可以找到在匈牙利栽种的大部分葡萄品种。酒庄主人介绍说这是由于戴伯亚既靠近著名的红葡萄酒产区埃格尔，又靠近著名的白葡萄酒产区托卡伊。融合了两个地区的地形和气候特点，使得这里的红、白葡萄酒均很优秀。“而我们成功的秘诀在这里！”老人指着正在繁忙劳作的农妇和正在葡萄园中小路穿梭来去运送葡萄的拖拉机说：“我们的葡萄原料保证2小时之内就运回酒庄处理，最大程度地保证了葡萄的新鲜，而不像有的产地是积存一天以后再运输。”就是这样简单的道理，原料新鲜，做成的葡萄酒就好。

从葡萄园到酒庄，一进院门。一个面容酷似老人的青年人迎了上来，不用说，这就是老人的儿子，酒庄的“少庄主”了。“少庄主”指着酒窖前大平台上架着的大铁锅，下面木柴烧得正旺，上面满满一锅食物冒着热气，散发着浓浓的肉香。“这是我父亲给咱们准备的午餐，他可是远近闻名的烹调高手！”

“我们猎人邻居的狗总是吃我们的葡萄，而我们就常能吃到他们送来的野味！这是他们昨天送来的野猪肉和鹿肉。”老人笑着说。

午餐前的品酒是在酒窖中以一杯清冽的葡萄汁开始的，接下就是10几种不同年份不同种类的白葡萄酒，风格口味各异，特别值得一提的是一种麝香半甜白葡萄酒，浓郁的清香，适中的酸度，悠长的回味，仿佛一位优雅的女士，轻拨历史的琴弦，把一个古老的传说向你娓娓道来。

配餐炖肉的是一种叫公鹿血（Stag Blood）的干红葡萄酒，和公牛血口感很象却又平添了几分活力，也许因为是新酒的缘故？与父子俩的交谈十分愉快，从地理到历史，从自然到社会，从酒经到哲学。宾主尽欢而散。

略有醉意的我透过车窗，看见了一幅让我毕生难忘的画面：大片的葡萄园，一座葡萄守护神石像背对着我们；旁边消瘦的白发老人和他壮健的儿子在向我们挥手；他们和守护神石像的背影在暴雨之前的乌云下渐渐远去，成为一个闪烁的亮点……

The most impressive is our last stop in this wine trip-Debro region, which is situated between Eger and Tokaj. Though it is only a small winegrowing region with only 2,000-hectare vineyard, it is very famous in Hungary for its wine of highest quality. Debro wineshop is a family incorporation, run by a father and his son. The father has just recovered from a serious illness, but he showed us warmly around his vineyard which was then at harvest time. There we can find most kinds of grapes grown in Hungary, which according to the owner, is because Debro is both near Eger which produces the famous red wine and near Tokaj which boasts its optimum white wines. Blending the topographical and climate characteristics of the two regions, Debro can produce both good red and white wines. “Here is our success secret!” The old man pointed to the busy working women and the trucks shuttling back and forth in the vineyard, “Our raw materials can be transported to the wine shop in 2 hours, rather than a whole day’s delay as happens in some other places, so that the freshness of grapes is to the most extent guaranteed.” That is a simple principle: fresh raw materials, good wines.

Tipsily I looked out of the window at a picture which I will never forget: a big vineyard, a sculpture of the vine guarding god with his back facing us, a thin grey old man and his robust son waving goodbye to us. They and the sculpture gradually fell behind under the dark clouds of a storm and became a sparkling spot……