ISTANBUL

Day 1

There are not many cities in the world where you can choose to live on different continents, are there? As a traveller, however, it is best to stay on the Europe side of Istanbul as this is where most of the popular attractions and bazaars are. There are several hotels to suit all budgets in Istanbul but for the sake of atmosphere and history, choose Swissotel. You are in Europe after all. The hotel that recently celebrated 20 years has the best views considering its location (at a height) and has a great breakfast spread (www. /istanbul). If you fly Turkish Airlines, you will get to Istanbul by 9 a.m., which gives you the morning to relax. There is a lot to see in Istanbul and we suggest you do none of that the first day. Here’s what you can do instead: take the longest and most luxurious Bosphorus cruise you can afford (one hour is ideal; ) and see the sights from a vantage point—lying back in the sun, a glass of wine in hand, a light lunch. On your one side is Asia and on the other Europe, as you spend time realising the significance of where you are; how fluid geography is; and how by doing nothing you are doing so much. Have dinner at the very posh Gaja Roof at your hotel, looking out at the Bosphorus this time.

Day 2

When in doubt, head to Sultanahmet. This is the hub of all activity what with all the big landmarks—the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofiya and the Topkapi Palace—within walking distance. Keep a day for the three sites if you are short on time but we suggest you keep two days—one for the mosques and one for the palace. Let this be your day for the mosques. If you take the rear entrance to the Blue Mosque, you will stand in a shorter queue but that still means about half an hour to enter. Inside, the mosque is peaceful even with the hordes and admiring the interior will take you a while, especially if you are interested in design and architecture. Walk from here to Aya Sofia via the pretty Arasta Bazaar with quaint boutique shops. Lunch at the fantastic Matbah that serves a twist of Ottoman cuisine (www. ) and plan to spend at least two hours at the historical and beautiful Aya Sofia with murals from a time gone by. You could opt for a dinner show tonight; try Istanbulin ().

Day 3

This is your day for Topkapi Palace, a ramble through which will leave you rich in information and incapable of taking in any more information or sites. Take a break inside the palace with lunch at Konyal? restaurant within the complex or eat a picnic lunch on the many leafy areas within the palace. Visit as many exhibits as you can and keep an appointed hour and time to meet your friends or family, as you are sure to want to do different things.

Day 4

On your last day, start late and have a brunch at Maiden’s Tower, an old lighthouse on the Bosphorus, before heading to Uskudar on the Asia side. Chuck the touristy hill with a ‘viewpoint’ here, which everyone will advise you to go to, and instead walk around to take in the difference between the two sides, this one being quieter and more residential. Head back for you have kept the best for the last. Shop for silly things, lovely things, necessary things, unusual things, everything at the Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar and hope that the airline will let you check in the baggage the next day.