Country roads

Shakespeare may have said this of Cleopatra， but one can as easily apply it to the chameleon-like state of Rajasthan. Chameleonlike because the state has several colours and moods； and often hides as much as it shyly reveals. While the allure and magnetism of its bigger cities is obvious， it is the hamlets and smaller towns that reveal the substance beneath Rajasthan’s captivating facade. And there is no better season to visit and explore than the winter when sunshine fills every nook and corner of the glorious state.

The easiest way to scratch beneath the surface is to set out on a jeep safari—skilled riders could opt to go on horseback—that will take you across the three neighbouring districts of Jodhpur， Nagaur and Ajmer. Jodhpur， the crowning glory of the spectacular Marwar region， makes a good starting point. Spend a day in the city exploring the massive Mehrangarh Fort and the magnificent Umaid Bhavan. While both of them are likely to elicit ‘ooohs’ and ‘wows’， it is the simplicity of the villages and the people that stays etched in the mind forever.

The drive （92 km） to the quaint little village of Khimsar takes about two hours along the Jodhpur-Bikaner highway. It is said that the fiefdom of Khimsar was established by a scion of the Jodhpur royal family and has always functioned independently. In fact， the Khimsar Fort is still home to three generations of the Khimsar Thakurs. While here， it may be a good idea to spend a night each at the fort， which is a WelcomHeritage hotel and the Khimsar Sand Dunes Village. But first it has to be the fort. This 16th-century citadel stands at the edge of the great Thar Desert， amidst Bishnoi villages that still seem to sway to the beat of a medieval tune. One can easily spend a couple of days visiting them on camel or horseback. The Bishnoi tribal community is known for its passionate reverence for nature and wildlife. Not only are the Bishnois uncompromising vegetarians， they have a history of giving up their lives to prevent the felling of trees and the killing of animals. Their villages are marked by clusters of khejri trees， where you might easily spot a black buck.

Back at the fort， there’s a small museum with a remarkable display of miniature paintings and antiques； and an eclectic handicrafts store. The evenings are spent in a more ‘touristy’ fashion， with a profusion of folk dances， puppet and magic shows， and even a snake charmer！ Before moving on to Nagaur， be sure to spend a night at the Khimsar Sand Dunes Village. A 60-acre oasis with a waterbody at the centre and seven dunes set within a circumference of eight km， the village is indeed exceptional.

Your next stop is the old city of Nagaur （43 km）， justly famous for the cattle fair held here every winter in January and February. To make the most of your visit， try to coincide it with the fair. This annual event， we’ll have you know， tops the social calendar in this district. Locals， tribesmen and tourists have been converging here for the past 56 years to trade in camels， horses， bullocks， cows， goat and sheep. Apart from business， there’s a whole lot of entertainment too— camel and bullock races， cock and bull fights and a good tug-of-war. There is also the amazing red chilli bazaar， a whole market devoted to this most fiery of spices. Seems a good way to experience the intricacy of rural life in Rajasthan， doesn’t it？

Moving on to Kuchaman （143km）， you might feel as if you’re travelling several hundred years back in time. Perched atop a 1，000 ft cliff， the fort somehow seems to resonate with long-held secrets and passionate intrigues. It is both with a sense of surprise and expectancy that one views the bold and sexually explicit paintings inspired by the Kamasutra that grace the fort’s wall. In stupendous contrast， the Meera Mahal depicts the story of Meera Bai’s intensely spiritual love for Lord Krishna. The town itself retains much of its medieval character with several beautifully painted havelis in the Shekhawati style. You might enjoy scouring the bustling bazaar， located right below the fort， for a variety of colourful fabrics and handicrafts.

A 50-km ride from Kuchaman will take you to another slow-paced town， Roopangarh. Since every Rajasthani town must have its own fort， how could Roopangarh not have one？ The fort stands tall in a small village not far from the town， but pretty much off the tourist circuit. Interestingly， it now doubles as a hotel so you can treat yourself to the luxury of large， high-ceilinged rooms. But the Roopnagar Fort has a more sinister aspect too—dungeons， turrets and underground passages to explore！ If that isn’t quite your cup of tea， you could take a camel ride to nearby hamlets to watch artists painting miniatures in the Kishangarh style and weavers and potters practicing their craft. Those who enjoy being lazy can go fly a locally made kite.

The last leg of your safari will take you to Kishangarh， a beautiful but rather quiet town just 23 km away. The romantic Phoolmahal Palace makes an interesting contrast with the formidable Kishangarh Fort right behind it. Fdged by a lake on the other side， this palace-hotel boasts a unique location. The town is famous for the school of miniature painting that evolved here， culminating in the exquisite Kishangarh Radha characterised by her sharp features and profile， an aquiline nose and slanting eyes. Kishangarh is still home to hundreds of painters who will be happy to welcome you into their studios and ateliers. So do stop to browse， buy or even to try your hand at painting.

Remember， this entire trip is about slowing down， about taking out the time to absorb the sometimes sleepy， sometimes dynamic rhythm of the villages and towns along the way and enjoying it in the season where this desert state is at its very best.