Maximum effect

“You have never seen the monsoon burst？” a woman from Bombay asks Alexander Frater， in his book， Chasing the Monsoon （Frater， a travel writer and weather watcher from New Zealand， came to India to literally chase the rains as they first landed in Kerala and then travelled up the country and his book describes this fascinating journey in pursuit of the monsoon）. “In Bombay it is quite something. For months the city has been absolutely sweltering. And then， usually on the afternoon of June 10， huge clouds begin to build up over the sea. Soon the wind comes， so strong it will sink any little boats that haven’t taken shelter. The wind drops， it gets very dark， there is terrific thunder and lightning and then—the deluge！ Suddenly the air is very cool and perfumed with flowers. It is a time of rejoicing and renewal.”

The Mumbai monsoon suffers from schizophrenia—sometimes making a grand entry with a spectacular show， sometimes skulking in without much ado. When it behaves like a grand dame， it’s an ethereal sight—the sky and the sea turn a steel shade of blue， flecked with gold. At seaside promenades， people gather to watch the spectacle， trying to hold on to their balance against a ferocious wind. And then the storm bursts and a roar goes up in the crowd.

When the entry is a damp squib， people shake their heads， pursing their lips in disapproval. Former Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru was certainly not impressed with the rains in Mumbai. This is what he wrote in his diary on June 15， 1939 （subsequently published in the National Herald） about his tryst with the Mumbai monsoon： “I have been to Bombay so many times but I had never seen the coming of the monsoon here. I had been told and I had read that this coming of the first rains was an event in Bombay… So I looked forward to the coming of the monsoon and I became a watcher of the skies， waiting to spot the heralds that preceded the attack. A few showers came. Oh， that was nothing， I was told… Heavier rains followed， but I ignored them and waited for some extraordinary happening. While I waited I learnt from various people that the monsoon had definitely come and established itself… Another illusion gone.”

Whether it’s a grand show or a damp one， for three months （mid-June to September） monsoon mania takes over Mumbai. People flock to the seaside promenades to watch the monstrous waves that splash over the walls. Mumbaikars do not let a droplet or two rain on their parade. The rain may be falling in sheets， yet one can see long queues at the top nightspots， uniformed youngsters and office workers slosh their way to school and work； vendors peddle thick bunches of roses and fashion magazines. Even art galleries are taken over by exhibits celebrating Mumbai’s love affair with the monsoon—a multimedia exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art last year aptly titled SOAK， focused on the art， science and technology of the monsoons.

The best way to enjoy the rains in Mumbai is a walk on rain-lashed Marine Drive. Follow in the footsteps of couples from countless Bollywood films and take cover under a big black umbrella， getting soaked in the rain and with the energy of 30-ft high waves. Have a hot cup of cutting chai and roasted bhutta on the roadside. A word of warning， though—avoid high tide days and don’t venture too close to the boundary wall.

Many Bollywood films have picturised romantic songs on Mumbai’s promenades， especially Marine Drive. The magic of Bollywood mixed so well with the romance of the Mumbai monsoon that it has become the iconic image of rains for the country—whether it is songs from the classic Ek Ladki Bheegi Bhaagi Si from Chalti ka Naam Gaadi， or Pyaar Hua Ikraar Hua Hai from Shri 420 or more recent ones such as Hum Tum in which as Saif Ali Khan and rani Mukerji get soaked on Mumbai streets. But the song that gets top-of-the-mind recall is Rimjhim Girey Saawan… A good view of the rain-washed city can be had over a cup of tea at iconic Taj Mahal’s Sea Lounge. It’s legendary for its view of the Arabian Ocean and the anchored boats in the Gateway Harbour. Sunday brunch and beer at Seaview Hotel on Juhu beach is another good option. The place is similar to a verandah restaurant on the beach， with one side opening out to a great view of the sea.

Mumbai is one of the very few metropolitan cities in the world with forests （and accompanying wild creatures） in its premises. A monsoon must-do is a day visit to one of these. Try Borivli National Park， Mahim Nature Park， Yeoor Hills or Goregaon’s Aarey Colony.

You could also spend a morning at Hanging Gardens. Situated on top of Malabar Hill， and perched on top of a 10 million gallon water tank， it is one of the best viewing points in Mumbai. If driving through the blinding rain appeals to you， go down the Worli Sea Link.

Take off for a long drive down the Ghats and let the rains work their magic. The Ghats are a biodiversity hotspot and come alive during the rains—lush green hills punctuated by silvery waterfalls. Through rain-spattered windows， the landscape looks a lot like a painting from the Impressionist period. Everyone has their favourite rain spot in the Ghats， but Malshej Ghat is acknowledged as the king of them all. Visit the nearby Pimpalgaon dam where the film Raavan was shot. Peer down a sheer cliff edge and you are in for a surprise. The wind in the valley below lifts up the rain， pushes it upwards and lashes your face. The flow is vertical as if falling from below and not above. It’s an unforgettable experience.

If you prefer soft sands with rain， Mumbai has several beaches just a short drive away， where you can curl up on a hammock and get drenched in style. Try Manori， Alibag， Kihim， Kashid or Ganpatipule. Back in Mumbai， seat yourself by the window and watch the rain descend on Mumbai. You can witness this every year and yet find some freshness in the monsoon.