时间：2022-10-30 09:54:13
1997年夏，有机缘在金华双龙洞景区住过数十天。其时，常常独坐石凳，眺望着古木林泉和腾空欲飞的青黄双龙，而陪伴我的总是一杯香茗。那是园区工作人员送给我的一种状态很别致的茶叶。它既不似龙井般坦然，也不像毛尖般纤巧，而是蟠曲处隐现茸毫，将那秀美处紧紧地包裹起来。等到沸水入盏，玉体展身时，我才辨出它那典型的上等绿茶特色：嫩绿清亮，银翠交辉，一股清香直沁口鼻心脾。我在喜得佳茗时曾问及该茶何名？送茶人却只知产于双龙洞顶的北山林场，虽亦有专用名似乎不太响亮。我不禁暗自惋惜，如此好茶却属无名之辈，真是“杨家有女初长成，养在深闺人未识”！
事隔十余年，当我读了毛应民君寄来的《千年贡茶说举岩》一书，才发现自己昔日的认知错了。曾经与我邂逅于双龙的甘露，可不是什么“养在深闺人未识”的无名之辈。它大号“举岩”，别名“碧乳”，唐时就列为贡茶，早在1000多年前就已名满天下，贵为宫中的上宾了。五代十国时，曾任翰林学士的毛文锡在其所著的《茶谱》中写道：“婺州有举岩茶，片片方细，所出虽少，味极甘芳，煎如碧乳也。”宋人吴淑与明代的医学家李时珍分别在传世之作《茶赋》和《本草纲目》中都将举岩茶列为茶中上品。
除了文字记载，在《千年贡茶说举岩》一书中我还读到了大量关于此茶鲜活的神话传说。玉皇大帝派金童玉女下凡赐种，秦朝得道高人“安期生抛杖栽茶树”，将举岩茶的种植史上溯到两千多年以前。而在东南沿海地区香火甚旺的黄大仙，因为出生在兰溪，又是在金华北山修的道，与出产于金华北山的“举岩茶”有“同乡之谊”，因而将这仙人与佳茗联系起来的故事就特别多。据《金华府志》记载，黄大仙幼年放羊时，曾随道士到金华山洞中修炼道法，40年后与兄相遇时羊群已化成了满山的白石，但黄大仙一声呵叱，石头立即变回羊群。那就是有名的黄大仙“叱石成羊”传说。本书中的《黄大仙叱木成茶》，则写了黄大仙为搭救名茶遭抢的穷苦老人，将漫山遍野的灌木瞬间变化为一丛丛茶树的故事。黄大仙不仅以茶济世，还用茶医治百姓的眼疾。《黄大仙与》就写了这个故事，还由此将“举岩茶”的命名权赋予了这位心怀慈悲又神通广大的本地神祗。朱元璋攻打婺州城时，因军中眼疾肆虐，求告黄大仙遣道长以茶治愈，朱元璋又赐名“举眼茶”；又因部将常遇春、胡大海举起茶村巨岩被选为先锋，复更名为“举岩茶”。
传说故事中令我感兴趣的，还有那些与文人雅士沾边的轶闻趣事。给人印象较深的是《小侍童茶艺》与《张志和茶叶换民歌》。这两则故事的主人公贯休与张志和都是兰溪人。他们与“举岩茶”有联系是很自然的。而贯穿于这两则故事中还有一人，就是被尊为茶圣的陆羽。陆羽原籍湖北，但他长期居住在湖州，并在那里写下了世界上第一部茶叶专著《茶经》。在写作《茶经》的前后，他曾前往包括婺州在内的32州郡考察，对时为贡茶的“举岩茶”做过调查。所以，《小侍童茶艺》中，写陆羽如何来到兰溪和安寺，为圆贞禅师煮“举岩茶”，还是有所依据的。陆羽的《茶经》中有专门章节叙述如何烹茶饮茶，其所烹制的茶自然不同凡响。而聪慧过人的小侍童偷学技艺也完全有可能。但故事妙就妙在这小侍童不是别人，就是日后被前蜀国主封为国师的诗僧贯休。贯休“诗名高节，宇内咸知。善草书图画，时人比之怀素、阎立本。”将这么一位名人与陆羽一起牵扯进“举岩茶”来，虽然与史实不相符，但作为故事还是可以的，投合了普通百姓的心理。
遗憾的是，曾经享誉千年受到宫廷和诸多名人雅士青睐的“举岩茶”，在历史变迁中逐渐衰落濒临湮没，以致于我在北山的双龙洞居住期间，竟然品佳茗而不知其名，生生地将一位“贵夫人”重新打入“深闺”。好在随着新时期以来传统文化的复兴，老名牌受到了各地应有的重视，拯救举岩茶也列入金华市的热门议题。而《千年贡茶说举岩》的编纂出版，更创造了让“举岩茶”走出“深闺”步入大市场的又一契机。东坡居士曾云：“上茶妙墨俱香，是其德也；皆坚，是其操也。”陆游更有诗曰：“矮纸斜行闲作草，晴窗细乳戏分茶”。墨影飘舞，茶香浮动，我沏上一杯青翠的举岩茶，品故事，品书法，陶陶然之情状，正如作家王旭烽在该书《跋》中所言：“那偷来的半日浮生，也当得起今人的品质生活了吧！”
（本文作者系青海省文联原主席）
My Encounter withJuyan Tea
By Chen Shilian
I stayed in the Double Dragon, a scenic spot in Jinhua in central Zhejiang, for about a month in the summer of 1997. More often than not, I was able to sit on a stone bench looking out at the ancient woods and listening to a bubbling stream. I enjoyed my leisure with a cup of tea offered by the staff of the scenic spot committee. The tea was quite different from anything I had tasted. It looked poetic and smelled refreshing. I wondered what tea it was, thinking it might a famous tea unknown to me. To my disappointment, it was a local produce from a farm nearby. I sighed over the destiny of the unknown but good tea.
Just the other day I found I had misunderstood the tea more than ten years before. What corrected my wrong impression was a book from my friend Mao Yingmin. Entitled “A Folk History of 1,000 Years of Juyan Tea”, the book explains the origin and fame of the tea produced in the neighborhood of the Double Dragon scenic spot. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907), Juyan Tea had already become a tribute to the royal house. A scholar named Mao Wenxi of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms includes Juyan Tea in his “Records of Tea”. It is also described as a prominent tea brand in other important books in the Song and the Ming dynasties.
The book includes many fairy tales and folk stories about the tea and about people related with the famed beverage. In China, folklore artists can always trace something in their community to gods and immortals and ancient celebrities. Juyan Tea is made noble in the same way by local folklore artists. According to the folk imagination, the Jade Emperor sent a gold boy and a jade girl to Double Dragon. The duo brought seeds from heaven and planted them there. In another folk story, a layman-turned immortal named An Qisheng of the Qin Dynasty threw his cane to the ground and the cane became tea groves, thus tracing the local history of tea cultivation to more than 2,000 years ago. According to some folk stories, the tea even has something to do with a local Taoist immortal and the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Naturally, Lu Yu, the man who wrote the Book of Tea, the world’s first scholarly dissertation on tea, had something to do with Juyan Tea, too. It is said that while the scholar was writing his world-famous book, he did field studies in 32 prefectures including Wuzhou. Folktale writers would most naturally associate the tea with the scholar. The story, however, is absolutely a fiction. In the story, a child servant that helped the tea scholar make tea was no other than Guan Xiu, a Buddhist monk who later became a master to a king. In history, Guan Xiu was born 28 years after the demise of the scholar.
Though many folktales in the book are fictitious, the famous tea’s downfall into anonymity in history is an indisputable fact. This is how and why I had the slightest idea of the glory the tea enjoyed in the Tang and mistakenly believed it was just another nameless local produce. Fortunately, various old brands across China are staging their comebacks now. Juyan Tea as a tribute is now on the government agenda for its revival. The publication of the book is an earnest step to promote and market the tea.