时间：2022-10-09 04:13:46
KRO came to study in China as a senior high school exchange student when he was 17. He lived in a Beijing hutong, learnt to drink Chinese spirits and became fluent in the city’s distinctive dialect. This handsome half American, half Norwegian guy also gained a Chinese name: Zhuang Xiaolong. After finishing college, Kro returned to Beijing in February 2006 and opened Kro’s Nest pizza restaurant near the west gate of Peking University.
An American Restaurant with
Beijing Characteristics
Anyone who has visited Kro’s Nest knows it is a restaurant of unique style. The 19-inch “super pizza” covers a table, and customers can view the whole process of pizza making in the open kitchen. Old-fashioned wall lamps and a European-style fireplace sit alongside photos of hutongs and local curios, adding a distinct Beijing touch. As well as enjoying the food, patrons are free to scrawl on the red walls. “What I want to offer is a relaxing atmosphere,” says Kro with a grin.
Despite his friendly, laid back exterior, Kro is a man of high standards. “It’s the taste that counts most,” he says emphatically. He is not only personally good at pizza making, but is also a dab hand at cooking over 20 kinds of Western-style food. Moreover, his knowledge of Chinese cuisine is considerable. He can effortlessly reel off excellent charcoal-fire hot pot places or the best Yunnan eateries around town. It’s hard to believe Kro is a native-born American when listening to his commentary on Beijing’s restaurants.
His pursuit of culinary excellence is reflected in his own work. Kro personally trains his chefs and seasons every dish himself. He is strict in terms of his pizzas’ style, even to the point of being obstinate. The flavorings, such as cheese and ketchup, are all imported and must be “American style.”
Some patrons have suggested Kro change his approach to reach a bigger Chinese clientele, but the pursuit of “pure taste” is one of Kro’s life principles. When it comes to pizzas he refuses to negotiate. “I know not all Chinese people can get used to my pizzas, but this is the authentic American flavor and I will never change it,” he states flatly. He has no desire to compete with chain stores like Pizza Hut or Mr. Pizza. Different flavors attract a different clientele. “What I offer is excellent American delicacies to customers who don’t need to go to America. Of course I want to make money, but there must be something more important than the pure pursuit of cash.” In fact, it is Kro’s adherence to authentic tastes that has made the small restaurant popular. The proportion of Chinese to foreign customers is around fifty-fifty, which suggests quite a number of Chinese people have accepted and enjoy Kro’s “genuine American pizzas.”
Supporting the Family
Since opening a second branch of Kro’s Nest near the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium in Beijing’s fashionable east, Kro has had his hands full. Fortunately, it’s been an easier process than starting up the main store. “When I opened the first Kro’s Nest we were short of staff, so I had to be the chef and sometimes the waiter. After making pizza for 14 hours a day I was sick of the flavor!” recalls Kro. But hard work means nothing to this industrious American, who has been doing part-time jobs in carpentry, decorating and repairs since he was 10.
One reason Kro works so hard is to support his family C a very “Chinese” characteristic. His elder brother is now in college and his younger brother will go next year. Kro shoulders all of their tuition fees, which are tens of thousands of dollars a year. To get his younger brother through university, Kro has to work hard for at least another four years. According to American social traditions, Kro isn’t obliged to support his family or his brothers’ study. Kro’s answer as to why he does so is simple: “They’re my family.” His intense work schedule has meant he’s had to say goodbye to several girlfriends while in China.
Nevertheless, Kro has gained the respect of his employees. Zhang Nan, now the manager of the original Kro’s Nest outlet, was formerly a waiter who has worked in the restaurant from the beginning. Both he and his boss used to work 18 hours a day, and Zhang also bore the responsibility of supporting a family. “We are very alike in character, and he is inured to hardship and toil. That’s why I trust him to run the main store,” says Kro.
His many Chinese friends have helped Kro get to know Chinese people and culture, while his frank personality and understanding of China have helped him considerably in his career here. Whether it’s interacting with customers or managing employees, Kro handles relationships with locals with ease and harmony. When asked about the future, Kro says he is focused on earning money for the family for now, but down the track he dreams of a simpler life. “Maybe later I will buy a courtyard on the outskirts of Beijing and lead a life of leisure with my dog,” he says with a wry smile.