My Impression of Three Lanes and Seven Alleys in Fuzhou

The collective name of “Three Compounds and Seven Alleys” (三坊七巷 in Chinese) refers to a block of ancient compounds, houses and lanes in the downtown of Fuzhou, the capital of eastern China’s coastal Fujian Province to the south of Zhejiang Province. The 38.35-hectare area is one of China’s top ten historical and cultural urban blocks and a key cultural heritage under the protection of the national government. Situated in the center of Fuzhou, the block retains its general layout that took shape during the Tang (618-907) and Song (960-1279) dynasties and 159 houses of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties are well preserved although three lanes are streets now.

The ten lanes are divided in the middle by a north-to-south street. The three large compounds on the west side are divided by three lanes. The seven on the other side of the street are known as Seven Alleys and residences between these lanes are much smaller.

I revisited the block recently. It was early morning. The lanes were quiet. The whitewashed adobe walls low and high, upturned eaves, brackets under the eaves, all point to the antique charm of these buildings. At this time of the day, the lanes were deserted and the gates to these compounds and residences were all closed. Due to their longevity, the lanes looked timeworn. Red paint on gates had peeled off.

Of course, the block has more lanes than the famous ones. I walked through Minshan Lane from end to end. It is only about 100 meters long. It is so narrow that only about 2 or 3 people can walk side by side. The white walls on either side show deterioration through peeled patches, revealing the yellow earth below and displaying spots of lichen here and there. The walls are about 5 to 6 meters tall. The lane is paved with slabs, polished by footsteps over centuries. At the edge where the walls and the ground met were sporadic weeds. The narrow and long lane stood motionless in history without anything indicating the outside world.

Over the past centuries, the block was home to more than 100 well-known figures. During the Qing and the Republic of China (1911-1949), some well known figures lived here. Many houses have “former residence” in their names. Some of these figures played a key part in modern history of China. The most famous one is probably Lin Zexu, an imperial ministerial envoy dispatched to crack down on the runaway opium trade in the south. Lin was a native of Fuzhou and his family lived in the block. His memorial is now in one of the residences.

Of the 159 historical buildings in the block, 20 are more than 1,000-square-meter compounds. The houses and compounds there show the charms of ancient architecture. All these buildings display a local architectural style of Fuzhou. The building structure and materials take care of the hot and humid weather in Fuzhou whereas the general layout of the compounds meet the requirements of family ethics and satisfy daily needs of family members. Moreover, details of these houses mirror sophisticated artisanship and art. The private gardens in these compounds reflect the rapport between man and nature, a tradition of elegance that goes back to ancient times.

The most striking of the ancient buildings in the block is probably the on-the-pond stage. In feudal China, a stage for entertainment was usually seen inside clan temples and guild compounds in addition to theaters. The block boasts a stage standing above water in the center of a pond in a private residence. Erected in the Qing Dynasty, the square wood platform looks like a pavilion and measures 30 square meters. Opposite the stage stands a higher pavilion where family members could sit and watch the play. Between the stage and the pavilion is a patio. Experts say that the audience seats and the stage combine to create a very nice acoustic ambience. As the only on-water stage in Fuzhou, it is now a key cultural heritage under the protection of the provincial government.

The block used to be a destination of intellectuals of the city. Bookstores and workshops there printed books and mounted paintings and calligraphic works. Many bookstores there were operated by intellectuals. Profit was never the major purpose. The bookstores served as clubs where intellectuals met, chatted, swapped books, compared notes, exchange views.