Pamo,A Mailwoman in Nyima County of Nagqu Prefecture

时间:2022-09-24 08:43:55

She is a 26-year-old girl with dusty hair and sun-cracked dry facial skin. She often backpacks with over ten kilograms in her bag, and walks in the wild grassland for about half a month. This is not an account of an adventure but rather an undertaking of a young Tibetan girl whose name is Pamo. 365 days out of the year, with her pair of confi dent and glittering eyes, she carries newspapers and letters on her back to shuttle back and forth in the massive grassland.

Pamo has a short physical body, with two strands of hair falling down on her cheeks. Her rough facial skin is dotted with two beautiful red spots, and her eyes are bright, like sparkling spring water.

The word “Pamo” in Tibetan means “brave”. This Tibetan nomadic young girl, growing up in the western counties of Nagqu Prefecture in Tibet Autonomous Region, specifi cally the town of Drowa in Nyima County, behaved just like a boy during her childhood. She lived in a snowy environment with harsh weather conditions. In her childhood, she herded outdoors and took care of the domestic animals and the family grassland.

The western counties of Nagqu Prefecture are in a backward economic situation. Other than relying on animal husbandry, there is no other opportunity or possibility to fi nd a way to build up income. The chance of people being employed by government offi ces or enterprises is as rare as the phoenix. In 2006, as recommended by the town government offi ce, Pamo, the girl with pure goodness and the ability to ensure hardship, was arranged to work for the post offi ce branch in Nyima County. She was just seventeen years old that year.

Since working as a postwoman, Pamo has been walking around the Nyima County, which spans hundreds of miles, to distribute mails among dozens of administrative villages. This has formed the principle line of her young life.

When she was begging for this job, the girl was actually not unfamiliar with what she had to do, and she rather came off with a senior postwoman’s stance. In her words, “In taking this job, no matter how much I have to contribute, I will do my best.”

The average altitude of the northern grassland on the Tibetan plateau is above 4,800 meters. This is a place where no one lives at which mountains join with mountains, seeming to have a close connection between the land and the sky. The distance from the downtown area of Nyima County to the farthest village is about a hundred kilometers, and a 30 to 40 kilometers distance between households is not a rarity.

One day in 2007, Pamo received a piece of mail from overseas written in English. Her mind drew a complete blank even though she was always so confi dent in her business.

“This letter had crossed over a myriad of rivers and mountains from overseas to be here. I had to do whatever I could do to fi nd the recipient of the letter,”Pamo recalled. After returning to Nyima, she consulted with people in the town who knew English and she fi nally found out that this was a letter for Village Two in the area. Immediately, she took this letter and headed to the residence of the letter’s recipient.

Walking for several days and nights, Pamo saw that this letter reached the elderly man Tashi Norbu, who lived in Village Two of the town of Nyima. Upon seeing this letter, the older man’s mood was heightened, and he started to silently cry. This was a letter from his long-lost elder brother. “What I deliver is people’s goodwill,” Pamo said. “If I bring my own heart together with what I am delivering, it doubles this goodwill.”

On the eve of the Tibetan New Year in 2008, heavy snow about 50 centimeters high covered the territory of Nyima County. The road was so diffi cult to pass through for people and vehicles alike. Upon seeing the mail and remittances waiting for delivery, Pamo’s heart was torn in anxiety. She therefore made a decisive decision to carry post bags to make her deliveries even though the outdoor snow was so heavy.

By walking fi ve consecutive days in the -22 degrees Celsius temperature, Pamo traveled nearly a hundred kilometers. While hungry, she grasped a few handfuls of highland barley fl our, and while tired, she crouched to hide herself in her Tibetan robe wherever she could, like a culvert under a bridge or ruined residence. In the end, just by New Year’s Eve, she delivered 55 parcels, 856 postcards, and over 2,000 newspapers.

Pamo is deeply aff ected by rheumatism and scapulohumeral periarthritis due to hiking and carrying bags over a long period. Her shoulders have been left with deep red imprints. Friends advise her not to be such a hard worker. Her response is blank but with a smile that people often cannot stand because it forces them to withdraw their words.

Since 2012, Pamo began to share her responsibility with her boyfriend, Dala, who was a policeman servicing the town of Nyima. Whenever she came home at night, she was so exhausted and went right to bed. Her shoulders would be full of pain, and she would peel off dead skin coming from sun burns. Whenever he would observe this, Dala’s heart would ache. Since then, before Pamo would come home, he would often ride his motorcycle for over 30 kilometers to wait for her to come. Recently, he resigned from his position as a police of f icer and helped her deliver mails and newspapers. Nowadays, the couple works together even though the journey is still faced with hardship.

One day in June 2013, when the couple was driving their motorcycle toward Village Eight of the town of Nyima, the falling rocks from the sloping mountain caused the motorcycle to suddenly lose its brakes. The couple almost fell off the cliff alongside the road which was about 70 meters high. The motorcycle’s iron chain was broken, and there was no replacement. The couple therefore had to get rid of the motorcycle to walk to their destination. In the night, they fi nally reached the village and accomplished their task.

In the summer of that same year, the couple went to a Tibetan Buddhist monastery to deliver newspapers, which was over 40 kilometers away from the downtown area of Nyima. Half-way, they took a rest and had fried pancake for lunch. Unfortunately, the smell of their food was sensed by a nearby brown bear. What a dangerous situation! Dala immediately threw away the pancake and whisked Pamo away with him until they were about a safe hundred meters from the bear.

As a mailwoman, Pamo has to take less care of her family and family business. Therefore, her family members are really unhappy. One time, her mother was sick in the hospital, but Pamo could not leave her work. What she could do was to fi nish her work fi rst and then visit her mother. Unfortunately, when she arrived, her mother was sleeping. Because of this, she had no chance to really talk with her mother.

In 2014, Pamo’s father passed away for some sudden illness. Pamo only spent fi ve days to conduct a funeral. “Mailmen and women can hardly fi nd a replacement, and few people really know the road for mailing destinations. My work cannot be delayed,” she said while rubbing her eyes.

The Nyima Branch of the General Post Offi ce has statistics about Pamo’s service. Within nine years, she has delivered thousands of pieces of mail and 650,000 newspapers. In April of 2015, she was cited as “The most beautiful Gesang fl ower blooming in Tibet Autonomous Region.”

Just before parting, it started to snow in Nyima. Saying nothing is sometimes the best farewell. While the car was disappearing gradually in the distance, I turned back and saw that pair of big eyes full of warmth and the young girl standing there strong as a rock.

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