田螺的烹饪盛宴

The food here has been influenced by many other provinces and even by nearby Vietnam, so it’s unlike the cuisine of any other part of China. I’ve come here with Dean Fearing, who’s one of my favorite chefs. He’s a big, old Texas guy with great enthusiasm and a great appetite for Chinese food. Together we’re going to be attending the Yangshuo Cooking School, which is run by really talented local chefs. The main teacher is Kelly, who learned to cook from her grandfather, who was a very famous chef in Guanxi Province. Together with her fiancé, Leo, she’s gonna be teaching us how to make some of the most important dishes of this region.

Yangshuo is a place with one of the most interesting cuisines. It has everything that you want from Chinese food. It’s simple, it’s ingredient based and it’s spicy.

Dean and I are going to harvest river snails and then learn how to cook them. One of the best-known regional dishes of the area is river snails, which are very available and very cheap.

Dean: So Leo, this is the hot spot, huh?

这里的美食

受到许多省份，甚至是邻国

越南的影响，所以这里的烹饪与中国其他地方都不一样。我跟迪安·费林一起来到这里，他是我最喜欢的大厨之一，他是个热情的得州大个老头子，非常喜欢中国菜。我们会一起到阳朔烹饪学校学习，学校由当地杰出的大厨经营。学校的主要老师是凯莉，她的厨艺师承祖父，一位广西的知名厨师。凯莉将与她的未婚夫利奥一起，教我们做这一带最著名的几道名菜。

阳朔有非常有意思的美食，它包含了你对中国菜的所有期待：简单、重视食材、辛辣无比。

我和迪安要去抓田螺，然后学习如何烹煮田螺。这一带最出名的地方菜之一就是田螺。这里有大量的田螺，也很便宜。迪安：利奥，就是这个地方，对吧？

Leo: Yeah, you see a lot of snails there.

Ruth Reichl: Oh my god, look at it. There are all these snails.

The snails are everywhere. They’re in the rice paddies, they’re in the river. This is a way of taking something that’s basically a 1)pest and making it into delicious food.

Now Kelly and Leo will show us how to prepare the snails we caught earlier, using two different 2)wok techniques—boiling and frying.

Kelly: And now let’s put our snails—let me put another ingredient in. Dean: OK.

Ruth: So we just put star 3)anise, dried chilis, ginger, and 4)cinnamon.

Kelly: We use some pork ribs.

Ruth: OK, so this is 20 minutes at a really high—you just keep it going at this high heat?

Kelly: Oh, you can turn to medium heat.

OK now, after we cook this snail for 20 minutes, then you take out without the ingredient. We use just the snails.

Dean: So none of that 5)broth we use. It’s just for flavoring the snails.

Kelly: Yes. And now we need to fry a little bit again, and so we need [a] little bit more ingredients. Yeah, the pickled chili and the bamboo shoots and that one garlic. Then we smoke low heat and we put half 6)spatula of oil in, up the garlic, then chili, quickly add in, and the bamboo shoots.

Dean: Mm-m-m-m-m.

利奥：对，你看，那边有很多。

鲁思·赖奇：天啊，快看，好多田螺。

田螺到处都是，稻田里、河里都有。这样其实是把原本有害的生物，做成美味佳肴。

现在，凯莉和利奥将为我们示范，如何烹煮之前抓到的田螺。他们会用两种不同的炒菜锅使用技巧：水煮和快炒。

凯莉：现在我们把田螺下锅，再加上其他配料。

迪安：好的。

鲁思：加入八角茴香、干辣椒、姜和肉桂。

凯莉：现在要用些排骨。

鲁思：好，用高温煮20分钟……就一直用这么大的火煮？

凯莉：噢，可以调到中火。

好，煮了20分钟后，把它们拿出来，其他配料都不要，只用田螺。

迪安：那些汤都不用，汤只是用来给田螺调味的。

凯莉：对，现在要稍微炒一下。还需要些其他材料，如腌辣椒、竹笋，还有一颗大蒜。用小火热锅，然后放半勺热油，放大蒜，然后是辣椒，快速加进去，然后放入竹笋。

迪安：嗯……

Kelly: OK, that’s now in. Let me add little water in—one spatula water—and then add mints, OK, one spoon oyster sauce, and a little soy sauce—one third. OK, turn off.

Dean: Kelly, the smell is…

Ruth: Amazing.

Dean: Addicting. Mm-mm-m. You know, it’s a very soft texture.

Ruth: The truth is that snails don’t have much flavor. What you’re tasting is…Dean: Right.

Ruth: …the chewiness of the snail. With the spice, and the garlic, and the mint. Mm-m-m, these are yummy!

Chinese people come here for the simple beauty of this landscape, but for me, what I discovered was the simple beauty of the cuisine. Oh, I love that.

凯莉：好了，放入田螺，再加一点点水，大概一铲的水，然后加薄菏，好，再加一匙蚝油，还有一点酱油，三分之一（铲）。好，关火。

迪安：凯莉，这闻起来

……

鲁思：真香。

迪安：让人上瘾。嗯……你知道吗，肉质非常软嫩。

鲁思：其实田螺本身没有什么味道。你吃的是……

迪安：对。

鲁思：田螺的嚼劲。还有辣椒、大蒜和薄菏的味道。嗯，真好吃！

中国人来这里是为了欣赏美丽的景色，但对我而言，我收获的是本地烹饪的简单之美。哦，我真爱这道菜。翻译：旭文

怎么样，这道炒田螺大家觉得还过瘾吧？赶快到或.cn/crazyenglishecho免费下载MP3，再听听另外两道阳朔名菜——桂林米粉和阳朔茄子——是怎么回事吧。