时间：2022-09-05 11:38:55
It was love at first sight over a slice of Alsatian flatbread and a glass of off-dry, well-structured Riesling. We were a group of friends—all foodies and wine lovers—on a holiday in France. We arrived in Riquewihr, the base of our four-day stay in Alsace, from Champagne. After being spoilt silly with vintage champagne and elegant restaurants, we were prepared to be underwhelmed by any other part of the country. But we were wrong.
After a long drive from Champagne, we reached Riquewihr late in the evening. One look at the gorgeous fairytale village and our charming rustic hotel, and we were bowled over. What sealed the deal was our first taste of Alsace. Sitting in a quaint outdoor bar we ate Tarte Flambée, the Alsatian version of the pizza, accompanied by a glass of chilled Riesling in its typical greenstemmed, fat-bellied glass.
One of the smallest regions in France, Alsace is in the north east of the country close to the German border. In fact, travelling by road, you might be forgiven for thinking you have crossed into Germany: the names of the towns become more German-sounding, the architecture changes and then, of course, there is the food.
The food of the region reflects its history: Alsace has spent many centuries as the focus of a tug-of-war between France and Germany. In fact it was a part of Germany until the 9th century, becoming French only later during the reign of louis XIv, switching back and forth until world war II, when it finally became French. But its food does not suffer from a confused identity. Instead, it combines the elegance of French cuisine with the earthiness of German food, especially in its smoking and pickling of meats and sausages.
After Paris and its elegant (read: pricey) restaurants, Alsace comes as a breath of fresh air. The food is rustic, simple, and hearty, bursting with flavour, and reasonably priced. In a country peppered with Michelin-star restaurants, Alsace is famous for having the most of any French region. You can pick classy restaurants or delightful winstubs or bistros where dining is casual and relaxed. Most eateries we visited were family-run. The food was plentiful and there was a happy, homely buzz that almost encourages overindulgence.
Going back to the Tarte Flambée. Also known as Flammekueche, it is neither a tart nor is it flambéed. It’s dough that’s rolled round and thin, like a pizza, and topped with Fromage Blanc, a soft sour white cheese, diced onion, crème fraiche and lardoons(cubes of pork fat). on occasion, it might be topped with Munster, the soft creamy cheese the region is famous for, or even fruit and chocolate.
On our first day, etienne Hugel, doyen of Hugel et Fils, Alsace’s famous wine family, played host to us, walking us around Riquewihr, pointing out aspects of its architecture and explaining its history. After a tasting of wines in his historic tasting room, he took us for lunch to a local restaurant, la Grappa D’or. That’s where we had our first taste of the famous Alsatian Choucroute Garnie, a concoction of hot sauerkraut, potatoes and pork, sausage, liver with a garnish of black peppercorns, cloves, garlic, onion and juniper berries, cooked in Riesling. It was divine.
We were also introduced to another Alsatian staple Baeckeoffe, meaning baker’s oven, as according to lore, the women would prepare the dish and leave it in the village baker’s oven while they attended to the day’s chores. By the evening, when it was picked up, the dish would be perfectly cooked. Baeckeoffe consists of three meats (pork, beef and lamb), onions, carrots, leeks and potatoes, pre-marinated for two days, in white wine and then slow-cooked in a ceramic dish sealed with dough. When the dish is opened, the aromas are sublime.
Almost stupefied with food, we were ready for a nap when etienne pointed us in the direction of his vineyards on the hills overlooking Riquewihr. “I recommend a walk,” he said. Obediently, we went off, over steep hilly paths surrounded by glorious vineyards awaiting their Vendange Tardive (late harvest) pickings. It helped. Dinner was at Chef Jean luc Brendel’s modern winstub, Brendelstub. (He owns the Michelin starred la Table du Gourmet, also in Riquewihr.) Once again it was Tarte Flambée, arguably the best in town, traditional as well as Munsterladen. And there was Croq Salad de Autumne, a delightful medley of endives, apples, figs, raisins, nuts and beets, accompanied by a Pinot noir.
The next day was spent visiting Colmar, Alsace’s wine capital, and the following day driving down the famous Route des Vin, a road which meanders through vineyards and pretty villages. We shopped ahead for a picnic lunch in Riquewihr’s food stores, picking up goose foie gras, ham, Munster cheese and multigrain bread. All are Alsatian specialties, along with wild boar sausage, decorated gingerbread, baked goodies like miniature Chocolate Florentine and Kougelhopf, the quaint upside-down cake, studded with almonds and raisins, and jams made of yellow Mirabelle plums.
Dinner that night was back in Riquewihr, and hungry after a day of driving and fresh air, we headed to l’Arbaletrier, a popular winstub with red walls, happy energy and giant food portions. Guided by the effervescent owner (“My first ever Indian guests! Welcome!”), we ordered Quiche Lorraine (the best we’ve tasted), Baeckeoffe, Torte Vigneronne (veal pie) and outstanding Cordon Bleu de veau avec sa sauce au Munster (veal Cordon Bleu with Munster). As we left, sated, the party was just starting, with the bartender joining in the singing. That’s life in Riquewihr: the party never stops.
Enchanted by Alsatian food, the overwhelming decision was to celebrate our last day with a bang at sarment D’or, another top-rated restaurant in Riquewihr. All that driving followed by strolling around the streets of strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, earlier had built up an appetite. This fine dining restaurant didn’t disappoint. With the sommelier happy to assist, this was the most memorable gourmet meal—Alsace’s famous foie gras as starter, buttery in texture and exquisite in taste, succulent Dos de Chevreuil (venison), fork-tender fillet steaks, creamy Crème Brulee and Craquelin De Fraises (brioche filled with strawberries) washed down with a splendidly balanced Dopff Pinot Gris 2008 and l’Hortus de Bergerie 2009, a red from languedoc. A fitting finale to a journey of gastronomic delight. Ah, Alsace!