时间：2022-08-27 10:13:32
Scottish kilts originate from the 16th century， when they were traditionally worn as full-length garments by Gaelic-speaking male Highlanders2） of northern Scotland. Typically， the garments were draped3） over the shoulder or pulled over4） the head as cloaks5）. The wearing of Scottish kilts was common during the 1720s， when the British military used them as their formal uniforms. The knee-length kilt， similar to the modern kilt of today， did not develop until the late 17th or early 18th century.
Early Scottish kilts were made using self-colored6） garments， which were white or dull brown， green or black as opposed to the multicolored plaids7） or tartan8） designs recognized today. As dyeing9） and weaving techniques improved during the late 1600s， tartan patterns were developed， and these plaid designs became native to Scotland using tartan cloth.
The "great kilt" and belted10） plaid evolved from the tartan wrap11）， when woolen wraps and plaids began to emerge as a highly desirable form of fashion and a sign of cultural affluence12）. In time， the garments were worn gathered at the waist in what became the belted plaid. The belted plaid became a popular dress among Highland men during the 17th century and as late as 1822， when they were worn largely for ceremonial purposes as opposed to being a part of everyday dress.
During the mid to late 17th century， the "small kilt"， philabeg in Gaelic or "little wrap" developed. The pleated13） "small kilt" is basically the bottom half of the great kilt from the 16th century Scottish Highlands， which was belted plaid using untailored cloth. The garment was loosely gathered into folds and belted at the waist， falling to just above the knee， with a few inches of cloth overlapping14） the top of the belt. Typically， a separate length of cloth was worn over the shoulders for protection and warmth.
The philabeg was popular during the first half of the 18th century throughout central Scotland and the Highlands. However， in an effort to repress Highland culture， King George II imposed the Dress Act of 1746， which made it illegal for the Highland regiments15） to wear garments resembling any form of Highland dress， as well as the tartan kilt. King George II's opponents were threatening to replace him using Jacobite armies. In a panic， he intended to use the act's provisions to ban the kilt from Highland armies so that he could easily determine those who were supporting the Jacobite position and eliminate them.
However， the philabeg continued to be worn as a fashionable garment by the Scottish romantics and became a form of protest against the oppression from the English government. The ban was lifted in 1782， at which time the kilt became an enduring symbol of Scottish identity throughout Scotland and the traditional kilt gave way to the creation of kilt garments using tartan patterns， which represented particular clans， families， regions， or countries. Generally， when a buyer ordered a kilt， they requested a specific tartan， of which today， there are more than 3500. When making a kilt， the tartan's pattern must remain unbroken throughout the garment， therefore， it takes approximately 20～25 hours since nearly all the work is still done by hand.
Beginning in the 1790s， this style of kilt was replaced by the tailored kilt， becoming the modern Scottish kilt of today. The difference between the philabeg and the tailored kilt is that the pleats of the kilt are sewn down， as opposed to being gathered， folded， and belted. Initially the tailored kilt was worn by the military during the 1790s when they were box-pleated16）， but there was no tapering17）. Civilian tailored kilts were made sometime after， although they weren't pleated until approximately 1820， when they were pleated to the bottom hemline18）. As fashions transformed， designs of the tailored kilt progressed to linings19）， waistbands20）， buckles21）， and straps22）. Generally， modern-day Scottish kilts have 29 pleats and are made using approximately 8 yards of tartan fabric.
During the 19th century， Scottish kilts were a form of ceremonial dress and worn only for special occasions and primarily to formal events， such as weddings， sporting events， Highland games， and holiday celebrations. However， through a global cultural process of recognizing Scottish identity in America， reinventing traditions， and building the Scottish-American Heritage， the Scottish kilt is increasingly being recognized as an acceptable form of dress at informal parties， as casual wear or everyday attire23） and returning to its cultural roots. The Scottish kilt has become a required uniform for Scotland's Tartan Army soccer team and encouraged for the team's fans.
苏格兰裙起源于16世纪，当时是苏格兰北部讲盖尔语的高地男子穿着的一种传统长袍。当时这种服装最典型的样式是披在肩上或是像斗篷那样从头上套下去。在18世纪20年代，苏格兰裙是很常见的服装，当时的英国军队把它用作正式的制服。与如今的现代苏格兰裙相似的及膝苏格兰裙直到17世纪末或18世纪初才出现。
早期的苏格兰裙是用单色布料做成的，有白色的、暗棕色的、绿色的或黑色的，与现在人们能认出的多彩的方格呢或花格图案完全不同。随着17世纪末染色和纺织技术的改进，花格图案出现了，使用花格布料的苏格兰成了这些格子图案的原产地。
“褶裥长裙”和有束带的彩格呢披风是由花格披巾演变而来的，当时羊毛披巾和彩格呢披风作为非常吸引人的时尚形式和文化财富的标志刚开始出现。后来，人们在穿这种服装时就在腰部把衣服打褶用束带扎紧，使之变成了有束带的彩格呢披风。17世纪时，束带式彩格呢披风成为高地男子的流行服饰，直到1822年，这种衣服主要还是在礼仪场合才穿，而不是日常着装的一种。
17世纪中晚期，“褶裥短裙”（或者“短披巾”）出现了。这种裙子在盖尔语中叫“philabeg”。有褶的“褶裥短裙”基本上就是起源于16世纪苏格兰高地居民的苏格兰长裙束带式长披风的下半部分，是用未经剪裁的布做成的。这种衣服是将布松松地收拢形成褶裥，用束带扎在腰间，下摆刚好及膝，有几英寸的布与腰带上部互相褡裢。通常，高地人还会在肩上再披一块布来护身和保暖。
18世纪上半叶，褶裥短裙在苏格兰中部和苏格兰高地很流行。然而国王乔治二世为了压制高地文化，于1746年强制实行“着装法案”（编注：又称“禁裙令”），禁止高地兵团穿任何形似高地裙装的衣服，花格短裙也包括在内。当时，乔治二世的反对者威胁要借助雅各比派的军队他。乔治二世惊慌之下，试图用该法案的这些规定来禁止高地军队穿格子裙，好让他毫不费力就能确定那些支持雅各比派立场的人并除掉他们。
然而，褶裥短裙在苏格兰一些浪漫派中仍然很流行，并成为一种反对英格兰政府压迫的抗争形式。这一禁令于1782年被取消，当时褶裥短裙在整个苏格兰成为苏格兰人身份的持久象征，而传统的裙子也被花格样式的裙子取代，不同的花格样式代表不同的族群、家族、地区或国家。通常，买主订制一件褶裥短裙时，都会要求一种特定的花格样式。如今这样的花格样式已经有3500多种了。制作褶裥短裙时，整件衣服的花格图案必须保持完整，因此，做一件褶裥短裙需要花费大约20～25个小时，因为几乎所有的制作工序现在都仍然依靠手工完成。
从18世纪90年代起，裁制版的褶裥短裙取代了这种类型的褶裥短裙，演变为如今的现代苏格兰裙。褶裥短裙和裁制版的褶裥短裙之间的不同在于后者的褶裥是缝制的，而不像褶裥短裙那样是把布拢一拢、折一折再用腰带系上而自然形成的。裁制版的褶裥短裙最初是18世纪90年代的军队制服，当时的褶子还是工字形，没有上细下宽的样式。平民穿的裁制版褶裥短裙出现得稍晚，而且当时这种裙子上也没有褶子，一直到大约1820年才在裙子底端边线加了一些褶子。随着潮流的变化，裁制版褶裥短裙的设计也有了进步，有的加了衬里，有的加了裙带，有的加了搭扣，还有的加了皮带。通常，现在的苏格兰裙每条有29个褶子，由大约8码长的格子花呢布料制成。
19世纪时，苏格兰裙成为一种礼服，人们只在特殊的场合上穿，主要出现在一些正式活动上，如婚礼、体育赛事、高地运动会、节日庆典等。然而，通过在美国识别苏格兰人身份、改造传统以及建立苏格兰裔美国人文化遗产这一全球文化进程，苏格兰裙作为非正式聚会上一种可以接受的服装形式、一种休闲服、一种日常服装正逐渐被人们认可。这正是对其文化本源的回归。现在，苏格兰国家足球队的球迷联盟已经将苏格兰裙列为球迷标准着装，鼓励球迷们穿着苏格兰裙。
1. kilt [k?lt] n. 苏格兰褶裥短裙（苏格兰高地男子或英国苏格兰兵团士兵所穿，通常用格子花呢缝制）
2. Highlander [?ha?l?nd?（r）] n. （苏格兰）高地人
3. drape [dre?p] vt. 将……披挂于
4. pull over： 从头上套下去
5. cloak [kl??k] n. 斗篷；披风
6. self-colored： 单色的；原色的
7. plaid [pl?d] n. （苏格兰高地人穿的）彩格呢（或布）披风；彩格呢；彩格布；格子图案
8. tartan [?t?tn] n. 格子呢（尤指苏格兰格子呢）；方格花纹（或图案）；格子呢服装
9. dyeing [da???] adj. 染色的
10. belted [?belt?d] adj. 束带的
11. wrap [r?p] n. [旧] 披巾；披肩；围巾
12. affluence [??flu?ns] n. 富裕；丰富，充裕
13. pleated [?pli?t?d] adj. 有褶裥的
14. overlap [???v??l?p] vt. 与……部分重叠；和……互相搭接
15. regiment [?red??m?nt] n. 【军】团；一大批（人或物）
16. box-pleated： 工字褶
17. taper [?te?p?（r）] vi. 一头逐渐变细
18. hemline [?hemla?n] n.（衣裙等的）底边沿，底缘，下摆
19. lining [?la?n??] n. 内衬；衬里
20. waistband [?we?stb?nd] n. （缝在裙子上的）裙带
21. buckle [?b?kl] n. （皮带等的）搭扣，扣环
22. strap：请参见P53注释20
23. attire [??ta??（r）] n. 衣着；服装