shaoxing: a Picturesque Water town in southern China

SHAOXING City in Zhejiang Province is a veritable treasure chest for Chinese culture buffs. The city’s long history, rich culture and graceful natural beauty have inspired many Chinese men of letters to write lyrical poems extolling its charm and romance.

On the historical menu are: a temple commemorating prehistoric clan leader Shun and the tomb of his contemporary, Yu the Great; the ruins of the capital of the State of Yue, which flourished during the Spring and Autumn Period (722- 481 BC); the former residence of Xu Wei (1521-1593), a Chinese painter, poet and writer in the Ming Dynasty, and the school attended by Lu Xun, perhaps the most famous Chinese author of the 20th century, whose writing heavily influenced modern Chinese prose style.

Pretty as a Picture

The city’s name itself finds its origins in poetry. It is said that when Emperor Zhao Gou of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) fled south after Jurchen forces seized his Northern capital and incarcerated his father and brother, he arrived in Shaoxing, then called Kuaiji, and was impressed by its lovely mountains and rivers. He wrote down a four-character inscription vowing to retrieve his lost territory and revive his family’s rule. He then named the region with the first and last chacter of the inscription – Shao and Xing. Shaoxing, as it then became known, served as the emperor’s temporary capital before he re-established his seat of government in today’s Hangzhou, 70 km away.

Shaoxing was originally established about 2,500 years ago. At the time the area was a plain, but today’s Shaoxing is dotted by recently formed hills.

Longshan Mountain, Jishan Mountain and Tashan Mountain are the natural defense of the city. They have not only witnessed the long history of the area, but also become landmarks in their own right. Walking in the city gives the impression of walking through a painting.

Although Shaoxing is nestled among mountains, its soul lies in water. As a riverside city, Shaoxing boasts a crisscross network of waterways. Jianhu Lake, the Cao’e River and the Puyang River are the three major water features in Shaoxing, and together they form the unique aquatic backdrop to the city.

The Toulao River is another of Shaoxing’s waterways, and its name comes from a story about a war. Goujian, the King of Yue, was once defeated by the

of his other haunts. It’s a shame these places have been reconstructed; their original beauty seems lost.

Appreciating Calligraphy at the orchid Pavilion

The simple name “Orchid Pavilion”originated in King Goujian’s planting orchids there during the late Spring and Autumn Period.

Events at the pavilion in ancient times are shrouded in legend. On a spring day in 353 AD, 41 renowned scholars gathered at the Orchid Pavilion, imbibing and writing, of whom 26 produced 37 outstanding poems. One of the attendees, Wang Xizhi, wrote a preface to this collection in a running script, which was lauded by later generations as “subtle as a drifting cloud and as robust as springing dragon.”

Wang Xizhi’s work was so admired by Emperor Li Shimin (599-649) of the Tang Dynasty that it was taken to his mausoleum and never since returned to public sight. A few reproductions by highly skilled hands from the Tang Dy-

More than Bridges

Shaoxing is also known as Bridge Town. The city’s rivers are crisscrossed by countless bridges, enshrined in many poems. These bridges are the icons of Shaoxing, and each has its own story.

According to a 1993 survey, altogether there are 10,610 bridges in Shaoxing. Among them, 600 were built during the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.

Chunbo (Spring Wave) Bridge also features in the love story between Lu You and Tang Wan. Tishan (Inscribing the Fans) Bridge is associated with a story of Wang Xizhi helping an old fan peddler’s sales by writing calligraphy on her paper fans. Another bridge derives its name not from folklore but from its shape, which resembles the Chinese character for the number eight. It connects five roads over three rivers with a main and minor bridge configuration. Built in the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), it is hailed as an early version of today’s cloverleaf junction road design.

Several days’ visit is not enough in Shaoxing. Indeed, Li Bai of the Tang Dynasty wrote poems to this effect, praising the beauty of the region’s lakes in particular. Today, Shaoxing continues to attract poets, scholars and laymen alike. Indeed, the city itself is like a poetry anthology, one that overflows with gripping tales and beautiful imagery.