亚历山大·王:我行故我在

时间:2022-08-09 08:47:20

My name is Alexander Wang. I have a brand here in New York, and I was appointed creative director of 1)Balenciaga.

I started my brand in 2005. I was in school at the time. Uh, I’d just finished my sophomore year of college at 2)Parsons, and I was at this moment when I felt that I was ready for a new challenge, in a way, and I just really wanted to kind of get out there and kinda get my hands dirty, I guess, to put it in the simplest term.

我名叫亚历山大・王,在纽约这里拥有自己的品牌,并被任命为巴黎世家的创意总监。

我在2005年创立自己的品牌,当时我还是名学生……呃,我刚刚在帕森设计学院念完大二,那时我便想,在某种意义上,我已经做好准备迎接全新的挑战,真想出去闯一闯,以及……我想,简而言之,就是想去亲身体验生活。

Everyday Inspiration

The idea, for me, in the beginning, was always two things. It was always to tell a story and to build a connection with the customer and an audience. I think, if you don’t have those two things, for me, in my opinion, you know, it’s not worth it. There always has to be a reference to something that I feel where there’s a comfort level. And I, by that I mean, you know, my roots and kind of pieces that I like are always very heavily rooted in sportswear, and this idea of ease and this idea of items that people love to wear and can relate to. There’s this idea of elevating the everyday that I just, I’ve always been attracted to. You know, I think a lot of people look at me and, you know, look at my age and they have immediately this 3)perception of the brand being, you know, what it is. And sometimes our customer’s a lot younger, and sometimes our customer’s a lot older, and I think that’s what’s so great. And what inspires me every day is that, you know, our brand really is much more about a sensibility and, uh, an attitude and, you know, it’s not defined by where you live or how old you are or, you know, what your cultural background is.

日常即灵感

对我来说,最开始的灵感总是离不开两个要素――要用设计讲故事,要与顾客、观众产生共鸣。如果你不具备这两点,在我看来,你知道,这个设计就没有价值可言了。我的设计总会参考一些我觉得舒适度不错的东西,而我……也就是说,你瞧,我的设计根源和我喜欢的作品都有非常强烈的运动服元素,有一种轻松感,这些都是人们比较熟悉又喜欢穿的款式。我的设计理念就是让日常生活有所升华……我总会被日常生活深深吸引。你知道,许多人看到我的形象,看到我的年纪,他们马上就会对我的品牌定位有一个了解。有些时候,我们的顾客比我年轻得多;有些时候,他们是比我年长很多的人――我觉得这是很棒的一点。每天都会给我带来灵感的是……你知道,我们的品牌更强调一种感性,一种态度,而这并不在于你家住哪里,不在于你的年龄,也不在于你的文化背景是什么。

First Memories

I think probably the first memories I have were probably just going with my mom to the hair salon and having to wait for her and, you know, sitting in the waiting area, and then, you know, naturally you’re just looking at magazines, ’cause that’s all there is to do. I just remember one time I, I stole one of the magazines from the hair salon and brought it home with me. And I just looked at it over and over and over again, and I probably read that issue probably over a hundred times. From that point on I would just start sketching, and I wanted to kind of recreate kind of the imagery that I saw.

And then, from that point, it kind of led my interest to kind of do more research and see, like, you know, what…who were these designers, you know, where did they study, what were they, you know, what were they doing and where were they designing. And then I decided that New York was kinda gonna be the place that was for me and that I was gonna start. I wanted it to be my first stepping stone.

回首童年

我想,我最早的记忆大概是跟着妈妈去发廊,只能在那里等她,你知道,在等候区枯坐时自然就会翻看杂志,因为那是唯一能打发时间的事情了。我只记得有一次我……我从发廊那儿偷拿了一本杂志,将它带回家,然后不停地翻看,大概将那期杂志看了上百次。从那以后,我开始涂涂画画,想将自己见过的图像重现出来。

然后,从那时开始,兴趣促使我进行各种调查,想看看,你知道,是啥……这些设计师是谁,他们在哪儿上学,他们在……他们在忙什么,他们在哪儿搞设计。后来,我觉得纽约大概就是我要去的地方,我想从那里开始,让它成为我的第一块跳板。

The power of music

The fashion is very much like a melting pot that is looking at music a lot more, is looking at art a lot more, is looking at, you know, theatre. Music and musicians are probably one of the most inspiring things for me. I think so much of what has happened in fashion can be and should be attributed to music: punk, grunge, glam rock, hip hop, you know, all of these style movements. I start from music. I’m so into so many different kinds of music and genres in music that in my shows it always, kind of, plays a very important part. It can kind of completely change the way that you perceive a show, or a, an ad campaign or what, you know, whatever. Yeah, in that sense it’s been one of the most important things for me.

时尚特别像是一个大熔炉,需要吸取很多音乐的灵感、艺术的灵感,还有戏剧的灵感。音乐和音乐人这方面是我最重要的灵感来源之一。我觉得时尚圈里的很多事情都可以――也都应该归功于音乐:朋克、垃圾摇滚、华丽摇滚、嘻哈,你知道,所有这些音乐风潮。我就是从音乐起步的。我对众多不同类型的音乐以及音乐流派沉迷不已,所以音乐在我的时装展上总是至关重要的一环。它能彻底改变你对一场时装秀、一次广告宣传或者其他活动的感受。是的,在这种意义上,音乐一直是我最重要的东西之一。

FASHION & ME

You know, I think a lot of people see the industry as something that is very “4)glamorized.”It’s a lot of hard work. It’s a lot of behind the scenes that, you know, until you’re working in it, you don’t realize it takes a lot of people and a lot of work to create what it is, you know, whatever it is, a fashion show, a…an image, a magazine, you know, and it takes a lot of long hours.

There’s a lot more of a [sic] opportunity to put a designer 5)aesthetic into different 6)price points now, because the way that the fashion industry has really kind of opened up and grown and…for me, it’s always been about that. It’s always been about this is the kind of product that I want to design and this is who I want to wear it. And, if they can’t afford it, then it’s not doing anything. It’s, you know, it’s sitting in my showroom. So I was more interested in, about seeing people on the street wearing my clothes, and when I saw that, that was the thing that made me the most happy.

I’m proud of all the work that I’ve done, you know, ’cause it’s, it’s…lead me to where I am now. It’s humorous to me when I see kind of the things that I used to do. But other than that, I look at the 7)collection today, and almost every piece that was in my first 8)ready-to-wear collection is in the collection today, in some way, shape or form.

你瞧,我知道很多人对这一行的看法――时尚圈是“美就够了”的地方。其实这要付出很大努力,有很多不为人知的幕后辛酸,你知道,你得参与其中才能有所体会,需要许多人投入大量的工作才能创造出这种效果,你知道,无论那是一场时装展、一幅图还是一本杂志,这需要通宵达旦地工作。

如今,要给一名设计师的美学标上不同的价码可比过去容易多了,因为时装业的运作方式已经变得更加开放成熟,而且……对我来说,这一直是我的工作重心,我的工作一直围绕着这么两点:这就是我想设计的东西,这就是我的目标人群。如果人们买不起这件衣服,它就没有任何意义了,你瞧,它只能在我的陈列室发霉。所以我更喜欢看到大街上的人穿着我设计的衣服,每当看到这种情景,我就是全世界最幸福的人。

我为自己过去的所有设计感到自豪,你知道,因为它……让我走到了今天这一步。重看过去所设计的作品总会让我忍俊不禁。但除此以外,我看着现在的作品,会发现它们或多或少都有我第一个成衣系列的影子,几乎每一件作品都有体现。

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