时间：2022-02-03 12:14:58
HISToRy SHoWS that the region of Jammu and Kashmir has been a melting pot of different religions. Buddhism, Hinduism, Sikhism and Islam have all been dominant at some time in history. Before the Muslim invasion in the 12th century, Kashmir had been mainly ruled by Hindu kings who contributed by making temples and establishing pilgrimage centres which are still revered and visited till date. Sadly, there is no real information or knowledge about the beautiful but now in ruins temples of the region. Many scholars believe the ancient temple of Jammu and Kashmir were way ahead of their contemporaries of the plains and peninsular India specially around the 8th to the 12 century.
So we decided to drive off one fine day in search of these beautiful old temples. our first chosen one was the Martand temple at Mattan, close to the Anantnag district. We drove through the pristine and spectacular valley down the NH 1 to Anantnag where we took the road to Pahalgam, till we reached Mattan. Driving through the valley of Kashmir was a delight on the Mercedes GL; it hardly feels or behaves like a big SUV on the highways.
Martand Temple is built on top of a plateau and the drive is lined with untouched orchards of apples and walnuts. As we reach the top the view of the magnificent temple sprawled before us leaves us stunned. The complex has eighty-four columns, built of hard and square limestone, which is unique to the temples of this region. The exact date of the construction is debated, roughly put, somewhere between AD 693 and 730 with construction getting completed during the reign of the famous King Laltaditya.
Just on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, 30 km from Srinagar, we found the Avantisvamin temple in Awantipora district, constructed by King Awantivarman around AD 855-883. The temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu was constructed on a twotiered base in the centre of a paved courtyard which was enclosed by a columned porch similar to Greek architecture. Though the structure still stands but the details from the statues were probably destroyed during the Muslim invasion.
Bumzuva Cave, located on the Pahalgam road from Anantnag via Mattan by-pass, was a surprise for more reasons than one. It was located up a flight of stairs behind a shop. As we climbed up I wondered how could an ancient temple be anywhere next to a general store? But with much surprise we saw that the temple was in fact built into the rock face of the mountainous area behind the shop. It was as if the temple was built hidden away from world and somehow it added to its beauty. The temple was eerily quiet and drew us to spend some time inside the place. Even though I like to believe that I am not religious, I felt like saying a few words to the higher being whose presence I could not deny.
Verinag, next on the itinerary, is situated at a distance of 80 km from Srinagar. Hindus believe that the Verinag springs, the chief source of the river Jhelum, is named after the son of the saint, Kashyap Rishi. The clear water flows through a huge but beautiful rose garden surrounded by tall pine trees, then meandering through the mountain slope it turns into the Jhelum river.
We head back to Srinagar for a halt and also because the other two temples on our list, Sugandhesa and Sankaragaurishwara, are located about 27 km from Srinagar close to each other on route to Baramullah the district. Both have very similar structures and were built around the 9th and 10th century. While the former is worse off for wear, with architectural fragments scattered in the temple site, the latter’s main structure is still pretty much intact. There are various images carved in the lower and larger panels, the chief ones being those of Lord Shiva with an image of Lord Ganesha on the other side.
We are a bit overdosed on ancient temples by the time we reach the last one on our to do line-up. Payer Temple is situated only about 3 km the south of Pulwama district. Enjoying the scenery, we lost our way and, after answering many questions as to why we have come all the way from Delhi just to visit this unknown ruin, taxi drivers and locals finally helped us reach it. The temple is situated in the heart of the village, Payer. Many locals also refer to it as the Payech temple.
It has been a fascinating drive through a stunning state. The mystic of a lost era combined with the beauty of present-day Kashmir resonates in our mind as we finally head back to Delhi and real time.